I’m having trouble tracking a small blade on my band saw. I set the teeth flush to the wheel’s edge. After I turn on the machine for 30 seconds, the blade has drifted back on the wheels. It seems to move uniformly top and bottom. I’ve tried increasing the blade tension slightly to no effect. I’m hoping the many who know more than I can help keep me in line, or at least my blade.
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Replies
There is a tracking adjustment that changes the tilt of the upper wheel, which changes the tracking. However, you don't want the teeth flush to the edge of the wheel, particularly if the bandsaw wheel is crowned (a bit of hump on the wheel.) On crowned wheels the blade "wants" to rise to the center. That's where it can run flat relative to the wheel. If you have a flat wheel it is possible to run the blade near the front, but that's only desirable on wider blades. Center is generally better for small blades on either flat or crowned wheels.
I suggest a book on tuning bandsaws. I am still using one by Mark Duginske, but it's a 1992 edition. I don't know what's currently on the market. I'd bet Taunton press, our host here, has at least one in their current catalog.
Thanks Steve. I forgot to mention that I did confirm that the upper and lower blades are in the same plane. As to the blade position, the instruction manual w/the saw says to place the blade so that the teeth are flush with the edge of the wheel. I think these tires are flat, at least there's no obvious crown.
The make, model, and wheel size of the machine would be helpful, so would the size of the blade you are trying to install. Also is it a new machine and if not, how old is it?
John W.
agazzani B20 20" wheels. 1/2" blade. Not new but the saw hasn't seen much use.
BTW: Is the minimum width blade a saw can accept a function of the guides, wheel?
Edited 5/25/2007 5:39 pm ET by bakesale1
That is a relatively small blade for that large of a machine, which is why you are having problems.
Run the blade in the center of the tires if it tracks better there, you won't harm anything. In general the guides on the larger machines are engineered for wider blades and need to be carefully adjusted for smaller blades. Unless you need the narrow blade for scroll cutting you would be better off using a 3/4" or 1" blade on that size machine.
John W.
Edited 5/25/2007 6:12 pm ET by JohnWW
thanks. I'll set it up that way and give'r a go.
John
"That is a relatively small blade for that large of a machine, which is why you are having problems."
I have to respectfully disagree on this one. All of the pattern shops I have worked at or been in over the years (and both have been many) have run 1/4" to 1/2" blades on 30" to 36" saws with no problems. Just make sure you don't over tension them. Use the flutter method to set tension if in doubt. Just because the wheels are large does not mean the blade has to be wide. Using only wide blades puts too much restriction on the radius you can cut. The shop I am in now has used only 3/8" hook tooth bimetal blades (cheap) for the last 50 yrs. and we don't have tracking issues or adjust for drift. Set the fence and rip or resaw.
RichThe Professional Termite
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