The object in question is a 7′ x 4′ cherry top. The product is post-cat Chemcraft Danspeed lacquer.
For various reasons (sob) it is now wet sanded flat but I need to bring back the sheen (35º).
What product/compound – rottenstone, pumice, automotive, etc ? Cotton, sheep skin, scotchbrite pad, etc and tool of choice, random orbit, by hand?
I am tempted to spray a 50% thinned coat to melt the sanding scratches but have heard/read the product shouldn’t be thinned more than 15% to 20%…???
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
Replies
Well thank goodness other people do this stuff too. My 2 cents worth, you can putz around trying to buff it but its a reactive finish. You'll be there until the Huskers win again. Spray it all over again. You're just wearing an ulcer in your gut trying to make it pretty now.
Little more info - I'm teaching three fellows from a small shop how to spray. Even with slow dry thinner they can't seem to get a wet coat on the top in question.
So what I did was set them up with an air powered orbital sander, foam buffing pad and automotive buffing compound.
There was enough finish on the top to wet sand with 320 and then 600. Buff with the compound. Sheen turned out to be more like 50 than 35 but they were able to deliver the top....
After they get a little bit more experience I doubt they will need to do this again but it's nice to know something that big can be saved :)
Don Kondra - Furniture Designer/Maker
RW,
I'm curious about your reply that "it's a reactive finish."
Are you saying that reactive finishes can't be rubbed out?
Rich
Can't? No. Any finish can be rubbed; it's more of judgement call as to whether or not the end result of that process is an improvement or not. I've tried rubbing on a number of finishes. Nitrocellulose lacquer is probably an obvious favorite, and poly is probably an obvious nomination for the bottom of the list. I'm marginally in favor of pre cat over poly, but reactive finishes as a general rule are more flexible / softer (vs nitro) and don't take to the rubbing as well. You know this, of course. I've read enough of your posts to tell when the question's academic. So you want scientific data, I can't give it to you. I can only speak from my experiences, and if I were faced with a pre cat that looked poor, the rubbing I'd do would only be to level things out for the new coat. IMHO, a new coat applied properly beats the best rubbing you could get with pre cat. I have a coffee table which is something of a constant reminder of this. One of these days. . .
What, did you think I'd come out swinging?
RW,
"What, did you think I'd come out swinging?"
In a word, no. Why?
OK, I agree with your explanation. I was just asking why you categorized "reactive finishes" (generically) as not being good candidates for rubbing. Agreed that poly is not a good one. But, alkyd varnish is a reactive finish, no? And that rubs out pretty well in my experience, as in GORGEOUS.
But as far as poly is concerned, 'nuff said, and I'll take your advise about pre-cat. Yeah, a properly applied layer beats rubbing. I used to think that poly was awful, until I stopped fighting it and realized how well it flowed and leveled.
Rich
In a word, no. Why?
Must have been verbiage.
Speaking of poly, since we're completely off the original subject, ever try badger hair brushes on it? Yeah, I know, the perfect varnish brush, but since the first time I thinned down poly and used badger, I don't think I really ever want to use China again.
Yes,
Badger brushes are verrrry nice. Poor little guys!.
Rich
Forgot to add - the Huskers actually won today. Hmm, maybe he wouldn't have been at it so long after all . . .
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