Replies

1. 
   tbonetim | Oct 26, 2024 10:41pm | #1

   GGinNC, I see you've gotten no responses so far to a good question. I really like tapered sliding dovetails, but they require a considerable bit of technique to get right, and Jeff Miller's video workshop on the project you are undertaking leaves a lot out on how to pull it off. I would suggest searching this site for "tapered sliding dovetails"---there are a number of articles and projects. I find Tim Rousseau's article in issue #248, Jul/Aug 2015 to be very thorough. There is nothing sacred about 7º, you just need to use the same bit for the tails and the slots. I actually prefer 14º aesthetically. Since I don't use this technique often, I always spend considerable time practicing and dialing in on scrap pieces before attacking the project stock.

   
2. 
   ysu65 | Oct 27, 2024 09:19pm | #2

   As mentioned in the above note, I too had to spend a fair amount of time and material to try and dial in a good joint. I have two fixed base routers for this, one to cut the slot, the other in a router table. I had a lot of trouble getting a good tapered sliding dovetail. I recall that the first trial was good, the rest terrible. I went with sliding dovetail for my project, no taper. I cut the slot first then the insert on the table. I set up a axillary fence, got close, then added spacers between the axillary fence and the base fence to slowly reduce the insert until I get a good fit. I would wax the slot and dovetail to ease assembly, then pin with two dowels in the center. I was making charcuterie boards. This works out pretty good. What I will try next time is to get the insert a little snug then dry and shrink them a bit on top of the wood stove. This 'should ' give me a nice tight joint. I will try it later this year.

3. 
   GGinNC | Nov 01, 2024 06:28pm | #3

   Thanks for the help. I found waiting to cut the workpiece to final length after the fitting of the first end (as in project video) didn't work for me because the router table exact bit depths are different between top of board and tapered bottom side in order to sneak up on fitment. I imagine it could be alot closer in tolerance from one end to the other if top cuts are done and then bottoms are fitted to the slots using small increments of fence by using shims (maybe 0 002 or so) to move the fence each pass on the table. A potential PITA. (I can't use my Pat Warner designed fence with dial gauge for this operation.) That way, I can ensure each end tightens at the same depth, or close enough. OR, buy a shoulder plane.