Replies

1. 
   gdblake | Jun 06, 2009 03:28am | #1

   Poplarguy:

   Making a scrub plane via Krenov method is fast, easy, and results in a great tool.  I have one I made out of red oak several years ago using a full size ECE scrub plane iron.  Attached are pictures, easier to show than describe.  The first picture my scrub plane is in front of my Stanley #7 to give it some scale.  The plane is 11 1/2" long.

   It works extremely well.  I call it the beast cause it literally eats up wood.

   gdblake

   
   

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   Edited 6/5/2009 8:33 pm ET by gdblake

   
1. 
   retired08 | Jan 07, 2012 06:34pm | #9

   Thanks if you're still watching this

   Hello GDBlake, don't know if you're still subscribed to this thread but it you are I wanted to thank you for posting your picture of the scrub plane.  I had the urge to make one and found the pictures you posted.  I used Hock's 1 1/2" x 4" radiused blade and added a handle and knob.  I did post it in the reader's gallery but here's a picture of what I came up with.  Son of a gun cuts like a dream!!

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 08, 2012 02:40pm | #10

   Nice

   Looks nice, John. The fact that it also works well is a plus, of course.  ;-)

2. 
   roc | Jan 08, 2012 04:27pm | #11

   Obviously a fine tool

   Well done !

   What wood are we looking at ? :

   Sides

   Totes

   Sole

   Dowels

   PS: too lazy to go look it up in the gallery right now.

3. 
   gdblake | Jan 11, 2012 08:00pm | #12

   You're welcome, love the plane

   John:

   I actually saw your plane in Ron Hock's blog and visited your website.  Very nice plane, really like what you did with the front knob. Your plane  has a crisp modern look to it.  Wish I could take it for a spin.  Looks like it will glide through any board.

    I made a second scrub plane out of makore a couple of years ago which is a little more refined than the one posted here.  I used a LN scrub plane iron in it.  It is a thicker iron than most scrub plane irons and I like the extra length versus the Hock 3 1/2" irons.  I take really thick shavings with my scrub plane and the longer iron gives more contact with the bed and wedge.

   gdblake

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Jun 06, 2009 05:15am | #2

   You don't need a chip breaker, though a hefty blade is an advantage. You may or may not be able to get enough of a grip on a Krenov-style plane for the heavy work required by a scrub. I think that a wooden scrub is certainly alright - you don't need to buy one. The other option, if you are trying to save money, is to convert an old #4. Radius the blade, remove the chip breaker, and presto!

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   and now www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   derekcohen | Jun 06, 2009 06:08am | #3

   Nice work Gregory.

   I have a few scrub planes - the LV (excellent) and the Stanley #40 (adequate) - but I shall be making my own in the near future. I mostly use a Stanley#5 1/2 with a 5 1/2" radiused blade.

   The reason for wanting to make one (in the face of owning the above) is that there are lessons learned and to be implemented.

   I want a long scrub, about the length of the #5 1/2, so at least 14" long. Shorter planes not ride the crests as well.

   I want a heavier plane than even the LV, because I predominantly work hardwood, and lighter planes (such as the #40) literally bounce along.

   I would use a tote, as Gregory does and as Chris recommends, because this makes it easier to push.

   The Hock blades are just fine, but I would choose A2 rather than O1 here - you want the extra durability. In fact, I have a D2 blade that I will be using. Don't go wider that 2" ... although this does not matter as much if you use a strong camber to the edge - aim for 3" radius.

   Edit to add: use a thick blade - The usual fare is 1/8". 3/16" is even better for stability when pounding through very hard woods.

   And nothing wrong at all with a laminated (Krenov-style) plane. They are strong and reliable. I have made several.

   Otherwise just the usual: 45 degree BD bed. I will likely use a lever cap as opposed to a wedge for ease of setup. Wedges are fine  nevertheless.

   Let's see your result when it is done.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

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   Edited 6/5/2009 11:11 pm ET by derekcohen

   
   

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   Edited 6/5/2009 11:17 pm ET by derekcohen

1. 
   gdblake | Jun 06, 2009 10:30pm | #5

   Derek:

   Thanks for the thumbs up on my scrub plane.  Over a year ago in Knots Larry Williams suggested to me that I try a 16" wooden jack plane with a 12" radiused iron in place of my scrub plane for preparing rough saw boards.  I have looked around for an old one, but  haven't any luck finding one.  I got a chance to use an old jack plane configured just as Larry suggested at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event in Cincinnati, OH a few weeks ago.  It was a heavily worn tool yet worked just as well as Larry suggested it would.  So I bought a super thick 2" iron from Ron Brese while at the Hand Tool Event and plan to make myself a 16" jack plane with a closed tote so it is more durable.  It would be interesting to compare planes when we're both finished building one.

   While I'm mentioning Larry, I finally got to see several Clark & Williams planes at the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event which were owned by another attendee.  Really sweet planes.  Guess I'll have to arm twist my boss to buy me one as part of my year end bonus so my wife can't complain about me buying yet another plane.

   gdblake

1. 
   derekcohen | Jun 06, 2009 10:47pm | #6

   Hi Gregory

   Are you certain that Larry said to use a 12" radius on the blade? That would not create enough camber for a scrub plane. It would not even create enough camber for a fore plane. For example, most jacks use a camber of about 8". The average scrub (using a 1-1/2" wide blade) uses a 3" radius, so 12" seems to me to be very wide of the mark.

   The suggestion of Larry for a 16" long plane is in the ball park of the 14" length I like. I'd love to see his planes in the flesh - they come highly recommended.

   Post a pic of your plane once it is done. I'd love to see it ... complete with curlies!

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   gdblake | Jun 07, 2009 04:10am | #7

   Derek:

   I looked up the posting to be sure.  Here is what Larry wrote:

   "Fore/jack planes will range from about 14" to 20" long and have irons about 1 3/4 to 2 1/2" wide. It's helpful to have a couple sizes and to size the plane used to the size of the material being worked. Some people suggest an 8" radius camber for a fore/jack plane. I suggest you consider 12" radius unless the iron is narrow and in a relatively short plane. The length of the plane combined with how it's working can be a great indicator of how flat you're getting but monitoring your progress with winding sticks and a straight edge is important."

   Now that you have jogged my memory, I believe the owner of the jack plane I used in Cincinnati did tell me his iron has an 8" camber.  Either way, Larry was right about a wooden jack being less fatiguing to use for heavy stock removal than a metal jack.  I much preferred working a rough board down with that old wooden jack than with my vintage Stanley jack planes.  Since my new iron is 2" wide and I am making a 16" long plane I'll go with 8" of camber and see if I get the results I want.  The nice thing about making laminated planes using the Krenov method is that you can put together a plane in three evenings work with conventional tools and use less expensive woods to test out a configuration.  I've butchered a lot of wood playing around this way, but I've also learned a lot in the process. 

   The scrub plane picture I posted was one of the few experiments that went right.  I got the design idea from lusting over an infill plane I can't afford.  I wanted to see how durable the design would be so I intentionally made it a scrub plane rather than a smoother.  I used some scrap red oak cut offs to make the plane figuring it would just end up in the trash.  Seven years later I am still surprised by how well the plane works and how tough it is.  I use it on the nastiest boards that come my way.

   gdblake

    

1. 
   poplarguy | Jun 08, 2009 09:27pm | #8

   All,

   Thanks for the advice.  I think I've got some ideas so I think I'm ready to go.  I was also going to pick up a copy of the David Finck book on wood planes.  Actually, based on how much shop time I've been getting recently, the book will probably arrive before I get started.

   I'll post photos when I'm done.

   Simon

4. 
   roc | Jun 06, 2009 07:45am | #4

   I have and have made wooden planes but for scrubbing I like

   http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=40_5

   because the shallow open throat is easy to dump chips out of. The deep confined throat of the wood jobs, though beautiful, look like trouble.

   For the hard stuff I run a back bevel. Small light scrub plane works great for me. Easy to flick the chips out of and back to work.

   signed,

   donealloto'scrubin'

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )