I need to enlarge the look of existing beams for 4 cathedral ceilings as well as installing a 5th false box beam for another cathedral ceiling. One thought is to make the 8X16″ false beam sides out of 3/4″ poplar material, joining the random widths and lengths of the make up material with either pocket hole or biscuit methods to fabricate this large of beam sides (about 16′ long by 16″ wide for each beam side) and then finish the bottom with a made up beam cap out of the same material and method. Another method is to make the sides out of plywood and join the random lengths by using the methods as described above, and then finishing with a bem cap as already mentioned. Anybody out there know of a good method that offers quality construction methods that will hold up ofer time? Also, what is the best method of creating a false beam in an area of the peak of a cathedral ceiling that doesn.t already have a real beam to attach to?
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Replies
Mount,
Are you staining or painting the beams? I try to use solid lumber the length of the beam, if you cant get the material make sure you stagger your joints in the glue up, also we biscut and pocket screw the splice. Far as the beam at the ceiling peak ,nail or better yet screw a cleat on both ceilings that has been ripped at an angle to represent a plumb cut on the down hill side of the cleat when its attached , and attach your beam sides to this.Caution ceilings are notoriosly wavy so you will probably have to scrib the beam side to it,or use another molding like crown to cover up the gaps .
Tim
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention: beams to be painted, not stained. I understand your method and concerns and agree. Still, why not make the sides up with 3/4" veneer plywood? Too many end to end joints? It seems the plywood would have less movement over solid hardwood. Your thoughts? Also, on the cathedral ceiling where there is no existing exposed beam, when constructing the box beam per your method, how would you "beef up" the center of the beam span to accomodate a hanging 100 lb. chandelier?
Mount,
Its hard to make the joints totaly disapear with plywood because its hard to sand them flat without going through the vaneer. MDF might be an economical alternitive , it glues to itself real well and paints nice also.Look to see if there is a ridge beam at tour peak ,if there is attach to it with some all thread or a hanger bolt. If you have trusses the cut out the drywall ,in between your beam sides , and install sufficient blocking with lags or whatever you think is appropriate down to where the elec . box will be. You could probably hang blocking off your beam sides if you were confident of your beam to cleat connections, .Just use your common sense and you'l be ok.
Tim
mount,
There are many ways of doing the same thing , heres another . I generally use a splined miter to join the sides to the bottom . And I would also stagger the seams . The seams can be butted and also splined and pinned . On paint grade plywood is great to use . Maple veneer paints a bit better then Birch . MDF can also work although a bit heavier. I use a 1/4 " spline cutter router bit a 1/2" deep .The miter gets splined on the table saw while the blade is set at 45 degrees .
good luck dusty
Hey,
Take a look at http://www.woodlandbeam.com/youtube-woodland-beam.html and watch youtube video.
The Vidoe contain the work on wood beams!
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