Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 13, 2003 12:25am | #1

   Lowes has the Box track the hangers and brackets for that kind of door. (,Bottom roller guide, stop brackets, and flush pulls as well

   To keep water from entering the track make a Z shaped drip cap from flashing to protect from snow/ice etc

   The drip cap lip can be inserted under the siding material to shed watedr from entering the siding.  Assuming you want at least eight foot of opening, you must build the door eight inches wider (4" overlap each side) (And 4"wider at the top)

   The box track comes in sections that can be joined end to end (Centered on and in a 'center bracket",which has two set screws.

   Track should be mounted 4"s beyond the 'daylight'and even with the back end of the doorwhen opened to daylight on the opposite side.

   place the door across two wooden horses to mount the hangers abnd tyolleys. they should be centered at 6"s from each end.Assemble the rollers,pendant bolts and top and bottom nuts as a unit

    Leave some thread exposed below the 'flat' on the pendant bolt to allow room for up or down adjustment.

   Bore 3/4"holes down into door top at the 6" center lineto receive the pendant bolts. Notch the spot at the top of hole for the bottom nut. So it won't revolve in its hole.

   Put assembly on door squarely and mark,punch and drill for the three thru-bolts provided. The bolts go on from inside with nuts out side.

   Tap these carriage bolts into the wood with a hammer to seat them.Tighten the nuts and your're almost ready to hang door.

   While door is leaning flat and centered over the opening, and braced so as not to fall, SLIDE THE TRACK OVER THE TROLLEYS

   PLACE TWO PIECES OF 3/4" WOOD ABOVE THE DOOR TO KEEP THE TRACK PARALELL TO THE DOOR/ ALSO PLACE TWO PIECES OF 3/4" STUFF UNDER THE DOOR TO CLEAR THE FLOOR/STEP/GROUND ETC.

   Level the track and mark all the equally spaced bracketsthrough their holes and attach either lag screws or thru-bolts to the wall.

    It would be wise to attach to a wide 'header', and/ or to the studs fora

   lasting job.  The fluch pulls should be located 38"s above the floor and on the inside of door .

   Mark it out first with the door closed and into the stop brackets .            The outside pull handle can then be located directly behind the flush pull

   After adjusting the pendants with two wrenches 3/8" on the flat and 3/4" on the top 'Jam' nut, the final piece of hard ware is the bottom roller stay.

   Assemble the wheel and bushing to the bottom bracket and tighten the nut and bolt so the roller will turn without binding.

    Open door fully so thst the door stops even with the daylight and into the rear stop bracket.  Position the the bracket and wheel so as to loosely ride thi door but not block the opening. Mark and drill two holes for lag screws and attach.  if there's only earth in that location, Dig a hole ,tamp the earth down and pour a concrete footing for the bracket. after a week or so you can drill the holes and using lag sheilds, attach the roller stay.  Pheww, what a work out!  Stein

1. 
   TimGoins | Jun 13, 2003 07:42am | #2

   Thanks I already have that. I'm looking for some ideas for the door it self.  I want to build it out of wood. Thanks Hat

1. 
   Lazarus | Jun 14, 2003 08:07pm | #3

   How about building it in the traditional frame and z-brace way then using cedar T&G to clad the door. you could also fill the door with insulation and cover the inside with 1/4" plywood if cost is an issue, or use the same method for the inside as the outside if cost is not an issue.

   LazarusRemeber, "Wisdom is the toughest of teachers! She gives the test first and the lesson after."

2. 
   scattergun | Jun 15, 2003 07:57am | #4

   Looks like there's some heavy hitters in the sliding door section. So, hit this: How about a sliding door that travels down the outside wall? e.g., the opening faces south, the door slides left (east) and then turns and follows the east wall (traveling north)?Looking at regular overhead garage doors, they make a reasonably tight turn considering the height of the panels; if you made (vertical)panels half that size and ran them horizonally, you could get around that corner in pretty short order. Lots of ways to automate, and a world of materials to choose from. (I'm looking at standing seam copper.)

   There's probably some basic law of physics or ####federal statute against it, but other than that, has anyone seen or done one? Would you? When could you start?

   Butch