Hi, I have (6) 2′ X 5′ Anderson windows that came with the house. I’m planning to put new glass in them and use them for a shop window.
Good idea? I got a price of $40 each for the double pane glass. They were set aside because the glass was broken. I need to build a frame that will be approximately 5′ X 12′.
Should I use poplar for an exterior window frame? I will paint it inside and out before it is installed in the opening. I plan to make the 2′ X 5′ individual windows removable with screws from the inside. They won’t be opening windows.
Replies
Don't use poplar for exterior work .The paint film will eventually fail and the wood is not very durable.Consider Redwood,Cypress,White Oak,Pine etc
I'm putting the window in a south facing wall high up out of any splash and I live in a relatively dry climate. Central Kansas. Of the woods you listed, and etc.., Which would be least expensive? I'm not sure of availability of some of these species in this area. Most people in this area are putting up metal, prefab, vinyl clad stuff. I belong to a woodworking club so I can ask there about sources.
I did some preliminary measurements today and the mulions sp? are going to be 5 1/2" X 2 1/4" X 5' ( 4 ). The frame will need to be 6 X 1 1/2" X 30'. I cut it down to 5 windows after looking at it today. So I'm looking at a fair amount of hardwood. I haven't bought any significant amounts of hardwood in this area yet.
Where I live white pine and yellow poplar are not much different in price.You may find that southern yellow pine is a good deal near you.Think about the 2 1/4 in diamension it may be expensive.Can you get the lumber you need in 10/4?If you go with poplar be very careful to avoid any water traps in the design,ie slope of sills,drip grooves,slight easing of all sharp corners to ensure good paint film adhesion etc
Thanks Jako, I am going to slop the bottom 15* and there won't be any water traps.
On the 2 1/4" dimention I was thinking I might have to glue it up. I'm not sure , but Rosincor? comes to mind. Water proof structual glue.
I tend to use epoxy.IMO it is easier on the edge tools than Resorcinal.Forget the foaming wonder,polyureathane. Also think about laminating in some 3/4 Fir ply if you need structural strength to stiffen the long top jamb.Thats how we gang up a wall of lights.It stays nice and straight but you have to be able to hide it behind trim
Edited 1/15/2004 8:42:39 AM ET by jako
I've had problems in the past with Resorcinal. I think it was old because it didn't want to mix. I've heard it should be relitively fresh. Not sure why.
When I get it built I'll see if it needs stiffening.
Might me cheaper to buy new windows that are double pained in the long run. better insulating value and sound deadening. a 4'X4' picture window is about $103 for a Certainteed/Insulate window. You get a warrenty with this too.
The Anderson units I'm re-using are double pane that got cracked/ broken. They are casements I think. The kind that crank out. They are vinyl clad.
How much do you think a 5' X 10' window would cost? That's a pretty big window. When they get over a certain size they go into a higher cost category, don't they?
I'll ask at the orange box tomorrow.
The $40 dollars for glass in each window is double pane. I don't thing single pane would cost that much.
My aim is to create a wall of windows to let in a large amount of light over my main drawing, planning, radio listening area.
Most of the windows in the house are these 2' X 5' crank out windows. They just ganged them up in some areas and in some put a really big one in the middle.
Shouldn't I try to match this look? At least from the outside?
Edited 1/14/2004 7:39:41 PM ET by david
What you are describing is 'mulled' the joining of multiple units together..usually these are done at the manufacturer, some are shipped un-mulled and done onsite by a carpenter, unless you are familiar with mulling windows or have someone who has, I am not inclined to encourage you to do that..esp. with casements..ya can't just nailem together some come with mull strips, again from the manufacturer. If you need them you will have to order them.
You might want to post this over in Breaktime.
I've used poplar with oil based paint for my storm windows and they're fine after 6 years, probably need to repaint this year. Where I live, its much cheaper than clear pine.
The bigger issue that you might want to think about in wind country is the load on that much area of glass and how they are mulled together. You may need to break it up with structural posts.
Good luck,
Norse
David,
I made some windows for my workshop back in 1999. I used poplar, primed them and painted them a nice dark green. I live in Chicago and the paint has not peeled. One window in particular faces south and is exposed to the sun at least 8 hours per day.
For what it's worth.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I've found that if I round sharp corners, slope horizonal surfaces, and put a good prime and top coat on exterior wood it usualy holds up. I also will be able to paint the entire unit before it is installed. I'm also thinking of sealing it with a penetrating sealer.
You're absolutely correct in rounding the sharp edges for painting wood. Paint won't stick to a sharp edge.
Good luck,
Norse
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