I’m looking for some suggestions/help to build the locker-style built-in from the Built-In Build off feature arcticle in this months magazine (https://www.finewoodworking.com/PlansAndProjects/PlansAndProjectsPDF.aspx?id=33480). I fell in love with the locker-style built-in right away and started planning on how to do the build. However, I quickly realized that I have a hot-water baseboard heater right where I would like to build the peice.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to modify the plan to accommidate the baseboard heat? I’m thinking about changing the storage box to an open bench but not sure how to modify the plan or perhaps moving the baseboard heater which I don’t think is an option since I don’t have anywhere else to put it in the room.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Chris
Replies
hot water
Does the baseboard heater extend all across the space you want the built-in? And, how high does it extend?
My thought would be that you'd want open air space in front of, and above the baseboard heater - at least a foot or so above the top edge. But, I might easily be wrong on that. If that's close, though, that would mean some combination of hanging the cabinet on a French cleat, or affixing it to the studs, so as to leave the bottom area open for the heater. Planning for whatever weight might be stored in the cabinet becomes the usual engineering issue. That is to say, multiple cleats might be needed to distribute the weight of the cabinet and the contents.
Hello Ralph,
The baseboard heater is 50 inches long by 5 inches high. The bench on the plan is 64 so the whole thing will be covered. I guess my bigest concern is how to modify the plan so that it will look as good as it does in the pictures.
Hello Ralph,
The baseboard heater is 50 inches long by 5 inches high. The bench on the plan is 64 so the whole thing will be covered. I guess my bigest concern is how to modify the plan so that it will look as good as it does in the pictures.
Convection heating
The baseboard heater works by convection, so you need to provide a vent strip in the baseboard and an outlet in the seat. It shouldn't be very hard to shorten the drawers to allow for the heat to rise vertically at the rear up through the vent in the seat. Just think of it as making a wooden duct feeding the the heater and one above drawing the air and heat by convection. I don't think you need to get very fussy about sizing the vents except to let the air come in and give it somewhere to go.
You might also want to make provision to lift the seat so that you can access the radiation unit, just in case.
Baseboard radiation is usually on exterior walls and under windows so if it's there also, one wonders if this section is needed. As they say, supply the heat where you are loosing heat. Maybe this section could just be eliminated. You might want to ask a mechanical contractor for an opinion.
Peter
Hello Peter,
Great suggestions, I think I'll dig into this some more.
It had crossed my mind to eliminate this section and I believe you are right about asking a contractor. The area where I would like to build the unit is in our front entry which is open to the second floor. The heater is the only one in the area except for one in the formal dinning room adjacent to the entry....so I'm thinking it may not be an option.
Thanks for the reply.
Chris
Baseboard Heaters...
Baseboard heaters are a pain in the butt.
If the entry is open to other areas that are heated then you could probably just eliminate the heater, 50" of baseboard doesn't put out a lot of heat especially for a two story high room.
An alternative is to move the cabinet forward so there is an air space behind it, a couple of inches are all that is needed once you get above the heater, and to put a grill in the kickboard of the cabinet to allow air in.
Good to know
Hi John,
That's good to know that I could eliminate the heater. There are other rooms that are open to the entry so it would probably work.
Thanks
Chris
A contractor would be the best...
They do sell vertical hot-water radiators that could be put on the wall or side of your cabinet?
Anyway, they work well but can be more than just a 'bit expensive'.
They also sell, what I would call a 'under a cabinet raditor'. I recall that they have a fan that moves the air. Probably used mostly in a kitchen. Again.. they get a bit expensive. Supply and demand thing.
See: http://www.houseneeds.com/shop/myson/mysontoekickspacebuy.asp NO.. I have nothing to do with them.
The european style flat panel radiators can be very attractive.
And then, depending on what you want of/from your cabinet, maybe hot water radient heating pipe in a new floor or under the floor from the basement area.
It is so easy to spend somebody else's money!
Great suggestions and yes it is easier to spend someone else's money!
I never thought about changing it to radient heat. Might be a nice addition to the front entry way.
Thanks.
If you build your lower box around the baseboard with adequate venting around a hinged lid you have yourself a great dryer/warmer for wet winter boots, hats and gloves. I built mine (we have forced hot air) around the heat outlet, and put in sliding trays with plastic mesh for hats and gloves, and a vented floor for boots. The kids put thier wet things in after school, and they're warm and dry next morning.
When you built the box around the outlet did it have any adverse effects on the wood/joints or does the venting take care of that?
Thanks for the reply and it's a great idea.
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