Replies

1. 
   user-221516 | Apr 28, 2005 07:58pm | #1

   I am brand new to this forum but have been in the carpentry business for 30yrs. I would say the through bolts are overkill. I believe that glue would be sufficient. I would use a glue that would stand up to years of washing so it would need to be water proof and non toxic.

2. 
   BenM | Apr 28, 2005 07:59pm | #2

   You definitely do not need bolts.  Orient the strips so that the rings, as seen from the ends, are all vertical, more or less.  This will minimize the amount of expansion and contraction the top will experience across the width.  There will be movement and you need to account for it in attaching the top to the understructure.

3. 
   Frozen | Apr 28, 2005 08:06pm | #3

   Adding bolts can cause the block to fail if your locale has large humidity swings. If the bolts are installed tightly in a relatively dry season, they will squeeze the assembly and compress the wood during the humid season. Come the following dry season, the glue joints may open up.

   Don't ask me how I know this.

4. 
   Quickstep | Apr 28, 2005 08:42pm | #4

   Without bolts, it looks like I'll have to get some long bessy clamps........ Oh Well.....

   Thanks for the insight. It makes good sense.

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 28, 2005 09:24pm | #5

   Here is something that might help.

   There is a little engineering that needs to be considered when building an end grain butcher block. First, choose wood where the growth rings (viewed from the end) run as close to 90 degrees or parallel to one edge. Remember, the expansion/contraction is about double along the annular rings verses perpendicular to the rings. You've got to keep the grain running in the same direction as you glue up your strips. In other words, don't glue a flatsawn edge to a quartersawn edge.

   Next, the way butcher blocks are made is to glue up strips of wood like you were making a laminated type cutting board. These laminated panels are then run through a planer to flatten them and bring them to equal thickness. Then the panel is crosscut into strips of blocks equal to the thickness that you want the butcher block to be. These block strips are then glued together again keeping the grain running in the same directions.

   Not paying attention to the grain orientation will lead to the block cracking and/or joints being pulled apart.

   A type II adhesive will work just fine however, you need to be sure you do everything right to get good adhesion. Your glue faces should be flat and freshly cut. It they were cut more than a few days earlier, freshen them up with about three swipes with 320 sandpaper and block to keep the faces flat.

   Generally, threaded rod is not used as maple has quite a bit of movement when it's moisture content changes. Threaded rod would restrict this movement and either deform the block or pull the nut/washers into the wood when it expanded leaving the rod performing no function when the wood later shrinks. Proper gluing will keep the block together.

   Finally, it always much cheaper, and a lot less aggrevating to purchase a butcher block than to make one. The firms that specialize in end grain butcher blocks have speciaiized equipment to apply the necessary clamping force, plane the initial boards exactly correctly, plane the first glue up and then clamps to make the final block.

   Howie.........