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For cost reasons, I want to make it a little differently.
I want to use either 3/4″ or 1″ (actual) thick maple boards, 3″ (actual) wide, join this together somehow, and underlay with 3/4″ inch plywood (3″ wide) support strips, probably screwed to the maple (this is what I have seen for standard counter top, not butcher block, construction). Following this, a 1 1/2 (or 1 3/4″) strip would be used to face the edge.
My question is this. I see reference to use of galvanized threaded rods to join seperate “runs” together, or the use of biscuits. I am wondering if the rods run the entire width of the countertop, or just between runs. My concern is expansion / contraction of the maple and the opening of cracks particularly where I glue it (I will be using waterproof glue).
Would anyone detail for me the construction rod, and or biscuit technique ?
Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Chris Bush
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Why are you using plywood strips instead of a solid plywood or mdf base? You don't need the rod. If you use one, the wood moves enough that tthe rod will pop off the face boards unless you leave a pocket for the rod end to go into when the wood shrinks. I don't think the 3" maple will stay flat in this application. Better is to rip your maple into 1" wide strips, coat with glue both sides of the joint[not too much glue] line up the pieces, bang in a few air nails [1 1/2 or 1 5/8" brads] to hold it and go on to the next piece. When you get to the correct width, clamp it flat between 2 x 4 cauls with wax paper on the glue surface and use pipe clamps from one side to the other. After it cures, sand it flat and glue it to the plywood and biscuit on the face boards. I don't really like the plywood idea because of differential expansion. I'd go with 1 1/2" deep maple and no plywood. Just be sure you seal your end grain really well, 3 coats at least, before putting on the face boards. The last one I did was 24 x 36 and I used MAS overnight epoxy so I'd have time to do all the gluing and clamping before it set up. It was 7/8" wide poplar 1 1/4" deep and is plenty strong. I picked that size because the pieces were cut from offcut scrap so it was essentially free. If your joinery isn't perfect, don't worry. If there are any cracks between boards after it cures, set the tablesaw to cut a wafer of the correct thickness, cut it to length with a scissors, smear it with glue and shove it in the crack. Sand when it dries and it's invisible. If you're doing longer than 36" , you do 12" wide runs and biscuit and glue them together. I've done that too, because I didn't have enough time or clamps.
If you do it this way, maybe you don't need face boards. Just be sure if you go with natural ends that you don't air nail your outside boards.
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