Replies

1. 
   VTAndy_ | May 23, 2007 04:15pm | #1

   Stewie,
   I'm not an expert, but we have the same concerns at home so I'll share my solution.
   Have you tried "Tried and True" finishes before? They apparently don't contain any metallic driers:
   http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/
   I have a 10 month old boy whose puts his mouth on every piece of furniture, so I've been finishing my own pieces with the T&T "original" finish, which is a polymerized linseed oil/beeswax blend.

   I also need to renew the finish on our countertop, so I'm getting the Tried and True danish oil for that. (Most other brands' danish oils contain metallic driers, so until they cure, they are not really "safe" -- at least, that is my understanding of it.)

   Another apparently "safe" finish is the Livos line:
   http://www.livos.us/main.htm
   These are German imports. I have some friends who swear by Livos finishes but I have not tried them yet. Livos offers a larger selection of finishes than T&T; when we refinish our floors at some point, I will look into which one would be appropriate.

   There are also food-safe nut oils.

   I think that everyone has their own idea about what is "safe enough" for their home, and these levels of safety may be greater than or less than whatever gov't standards there are; for me, the T&T finishes represented a level of comfort, and I also like the fact that they are made by a family business in NY state. Your mileage may vary! And as I stated above, I'm not an expert, and I would welcome any comments by others who disagree with my assessment of T&T or Livos, since in the end, I'm not interested in promoting any particular finishes, just in finding and using whatever is safest for my family.
   -Andy

1. 
   stewie | May 24, 2007 05:12am | #5

   Thanks for the info.

   I have used shellac on a number of toys as shellac's primary use  is in making candy floss , so has to be safe to chew on a shellacked wooden block. 

    

   Stewie

   The Sawdust Shop

    

    

2. 
   oldusty | May 23, 2007 04:49pm | #2

            Hi stewie ,

                To answer your question , of a food safe oil to finish butcher block , one of the most common to be used is Mineral oil (not vegetable oil) with paraffin wax added . Bees wax can also be used with the Mineral oil.

       I just use a large tin can on a low burner or flame and slowly heat add maybe a third wax to oil ( not a scientific mixture ) rub it on liberally with a rag buff off the excess .

      Bleach can be used to periodically clean the wood top , neutralize with water then re apply the oil & wax .

               good  luck            dusty

3. 
   MikeHennessy | May 23, 2007 05:16pm | #3

   Wooden countertops are fine in a kitchen, provided you keep them away from high heat and moisture. (Some would say you don't need to be concerned with these limitations given the proper finish, but I disagree.) However, I would keep away from open grained woods like oak -- too many hiding places for nasties.

   I have a beautiful 1-1/2" thick cherry countertop in my kitchen. I oil it about once a year with an oil I get from a local hardware strore for this purpose.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   stewie | May 24, 2007 05:07am | #4

   Mike

    

   Thanks for the tip on Oak.   Your oil...linseed????  Tung ???

    

   Stewie

   The Sawdust  Shop

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 24, 2007 01:53pm | #6

   "Your oil...linseed????  Tung ???"

   I have no idea! I first tried mineral oil, but it didn't dry well and left the counter pretty much unusable for days. Then I found some stuff at the hardware store that indicated it was for use on butcher blocks and salad bowls and the like. It worked very well -- soaked in and dried quickly and seemed to give as much protection as an any oil can give. I'd give you a brand name, but I know I've used at least two -- I just pick up whatever they have that says it's good for salad bowls. I want an oil that will soak in and not produce much of a surface film.

   Not much guidance, I know, but you might take a look around for something advertized for salad bowls and try it on a test piece.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

4. 
   HowardAcheson | May 24, 2007 07:28pm | #7

   One question and one caution.

   Is the counter top going to be used as a cutting board? In other word, will knives and cleavers be used? The reason for the question has to do with choosing the appropriate finish or treatment used.

   The caution is not to use an open grained wood like oak if the counter top will be used as a cutting board. Food particles will lodge in the pores and create odors and contaminates. Use close pored woods like maple, beech, birch and cherry.

   Howie.........
1. 
   stewie | May 26, 2007 03:07pm | #12

   Thanks,  Howie.   Yes it will be used as a cutting board  ( food prep area).  So out with the oak ,  I have beech which I think is tight grained, and some maple.

    

   Stewie

   The Sawdust Shop

5. 
   GRW | May 25, 2007 01:37pm | #8

   I'm building a kitchen for some folks now. They want a butcher block top on the island.. I'll be using mineral oil.. I'd like to hear more about the bee's wax mix though.

   I was taught to apply oil to wood cutting boards and such as follows.

   Once a day for a week.. Then once a week for a month..Then once a month for 6 months... Then once a year there after.

   It's my understanding that a 10% bleach, 90% water solution kills germs/bacteria on wood surfaces. Check the internet. You may find a solution that will please the Mrs.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | May 25, 2007 06:51pm | #10

   An excellent treatment for cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store. Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquified. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no long absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.Your application regimen is one used for drying oils like tung oil or linseed oil when applied to furniture. It's not the one to use with mineral oil which never dries.Howie.........

1. 
   GRW | May 25, 2007 08:32pm | #11

   Thanks Howie,

   I try the wax/oil treatment soon.

6. 
   doorboy | May 25, 2007 05:21pm | #9

   Check it out:

   http://www.peter.hemsley.btinternet.co.uk/CDB/Technical/Bacteria/bacteria.html

   and this:

   http://www.whatscookingamerica.net/CuttingBoards/AllAbout.htm

   "Roger Staubach for President"

7. 
   Jim65 | May 27, 2007 02:53pm | #13

   Hi!

   Walnut Oil is foodsafe.  Olive oil would go rancid after a while, walnut does not.  Good for cutting boards or counter tops.

   Cheers

   Jim