Replies

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 18, 2002 07:54pm | #1

   I tried to find anyone in my area to make a butchers block top for me or supply plans and the cheapest was around $600.  Sounds like a money maker to me!  I decided to make my own and am currently in the process.  I'll let you know how difficult it is if mine turns out.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 19, 2002 07:16pm | #3

   In the shop I was associated with, it was always much cheaper to buy ready made laminated tabletops. The folks that made them had the right equipment and setups so they were much more efficient and produced a better product.

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 21, 2002 05:54pm | #6

   Thanks for the reply, Howie.  I found the best price through Grizzly, but I wanted a top with walnut, maple, and cherry strips alternately layed.  The ones Grizzly offered looked good though.  I may wish I had settled for one by the time I finish.  I am thinking about polyurethane glue, but since I plan on using the block I want safe materials that will stand up to moisture.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  I have already cut and edge jointed the strips, now I am ready for the planer.  My idea is to plane all the strips to the same size and then glue them.  I will use cauls to keep the top flat but I do not have any fancy clamping system.  Do you think this will be enough?  

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 21, 2002 07:37pm | #8

   Let me just caution you, face laminating differing species of wood can be problematic because of the differing rates of expansion and contraction in different species. If you use species that have close to the same rates, there will be no problem.

   Also, you need to pay attention to the wood annular growth rings orientation. All the board should be either flatsawn or quartersawn and when viewed from the end, all the growth rings should either be up and down or parallel to the top. Don't glue quartersawn to flatsawn as the rate of expansion/contraction is twice as great across the annular rings as along the annular rings.

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 23, 2002 04:31am | #10

   Howie, I know about the growth ring orientation but not sure of woods that share the same expansion rates.  I have heard that maple, cherry, and walnut are all close to the same and I am familiar with the Shakers having made blocks like I have in mind but everything I have heard says I'm okay but if I'm off track and anyone knows better, please let me know.  Thanks for the info.  

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 23, 2002 04:56pm | #13

   Wade, go to http://www.woodbin.com and click on the "Shrinkulator." Plug in the species and the outputs will be the radial and tangential rates of expansion/contraction. Choose woods that are as close as possible.

   You can also input dimensions and changes in humidity and it will calculate actual dimensional changes.

3. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 25, 2002 08:50pm | #14

   Thanks Howie,

   I will have to keep this site I am new to the information highway and am still amayzed at what you can find.

2. 
   andybuildz | Sep 21, 2002 04:48pm | #4

   Wade..Please do let me know. I bought a 322 year old house(I'm a builder/renovations (see my website below for the house I built that I'm now living in and just sold). . I need to think about doing counters in the kitchen that would look appropriate in such an old house and thought butcher block along with some other type of material would look awesome....Good luck and keep me posted please!

   Be well

            Namaste

                        AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 21, 2002 06:12pm | #7

   Andy, the house looks beautiful.  That is a total makeover!  You are well out of my league but I will let you know how I fair.  The top I am working on will be walnut, maple, and cherry strips about 1" square.  If it turns out I will post a picture.  I cut the strips, jointed the edges, will plane the strips to size, and then will glue them up using clamps and cauls to keep everything flat.  I am planning on using a simple mineral oil finish or some other type of food safe finish.  Nothing too complicated but a lot of time consuming work especially if I have to hand plane any flaws.  I don't know if this would be a worthwhile project for your counter tops.  It would look great but with the time involved you might be better off finding a good supplier.  I found a company in Effingham, Il., named (I think?) Jon Boos.  They did great work for a reasonable price.  I will try to find the # and name if you are interested.  They just didn't do exactly what I wanted or I would have bought from them.  Anyway, I will keep you posted and good luck with future renovations. Just found the number for John Boos, it is 1-800-667-8721.

   Edited 9/22/2002 12:33:34 PM ET by wade

2. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 27, 2002 07:15am | #15

   Andy,

   I finished the butchers block top.  I used poly glue and clamps like I described.  It came out reasonably flat but I took it to a lumber supply company that had large machinery.  They sanded everything perfectly flat and smooth.  It took about 20 minutes and $8.  The result was exactly what I was looking for.  If you are still interested in doing this project yourself let me know and I will try to talk my wife into teaching me how to post a picture on the web so you can see the results.  I was very pleased with the way it turned out and suprised at how easy it was.  It took time because of my limited tool capacity and family commitments (my wife tells me this is supposed to be a hobby), but it really wasn't that hard.  I glued the whole thing up in less than a half hour and the demensions are 56"x 24".

   Wade

1. 
   RSRose | Sep 27, 2002 07:33am | #16

   Wade,

   Please do post a picture.

   Rich

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Oct 11, 2002 08:42am | #18

   Here are pictures of the butcher block top on my finished project.  Hope this helps those of you interested in seeing the end result.  Contact me with any further questions. 

   Thanks,

   Wade

   
2. 
   RSRose | Oct 11, 2002 09:49am | #20

   Wade,

   Nice work. But the contrast between the woods is just too subtle. I like mine to have more contrast.

   Just kidding! In fact I've never seen a butcher block done that way with contrasting woods. They don't let me out much.

   Use it well!

   Rich

2. 
   andybuildz | Sep 27, 2002 01:55pm | #17

   Wade....I'd love to see it! EIGHT DOLLARS????? For them to sand it? WOW?

   What state do you live in

   AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Oct 11, 2002 08:43am | #19

   Just posted pictures of the butchers block top to Rich Rose, go to that post to see the finished project.  Good luck with your project!

   Wade

3. 
   johnhardy | Dec 05, 2002 04:43am | #21

   Andy,

   If you're thinking of doing countertops in butcher block, you may have a major warping problem later on. A friend of mine had a butcher block inset into his counter, near the sink, and after about 4 years the dampness (water on top), caused a major problem. He had to pull it out and redo that part of the counter in tile.

   I'm not saying it can't be done, but I'm very leery after what happened to my friend.

   John

3. 
   papaterry | Sep 23, 2002 04:36am | #11

   Wade:  I was asked to build an oak counter top and found an interesting source for very little money.  I went to a local tractor trailer supply store and discovered one that pulls out the floors of trailers that were made of about 1 1/4" x 1 1/4"  oak.  They are glued and joined by ship laps.  The ones I got ran about 11" wide so was easy to glue up. The ones I saw ran about 10-12 feet. Run them through a planer and they look good.  White and red is used. I also discovered a source in Agusta, Ga. that will sell you maple.  Now these are not as thick (6"?) as butcher blocks but I would never try to build such a thick one for $600.  Too much work and too much wood.  Terry

1. 
   DFDWats1 | Sep 23, 2002 05:06am | #12

   Thanks PAPARERRY, I wish I had posted a question on Knots before I began.  unfortunately I am already knee deep in shavings and will be ready for the glue up after my next shift day at the fire house.  I will remember the advise for future projects.

2. 
   FrankTate | Sep 18, 2002 08:00pm | #2

   Andy,

   You looking for something like this?

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?Product_ID=7782&&User_ID=2163699&St=9534&St2=-40029536&St3=54253687&DS_ID=1

   Frank
1. 
   andybuildz | Sep 21, 2002 04:52pm | #5

   Frank...Thanks man but I couldnt find any butcher block there. Where is it?

   Be well

           Namaste

                        AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   FrankTate | Sep 22, 2002 09:29pm | #9

   Sorry Andy, thought I pasted the link.  Check out item G9913.  Maple workbench tops.  Various sizes.Frank