Replies

1. 
   jagwah | Sep 08, 2003 05:13pm | #1

   Your screwed!

   I ran into the same issue years ago in an old craftsman home. Luckily as I'd hoped there was over 2" that I could raise the entire unit before I would get into the header. While this raised the profile line at the top of the door with the others it was only a 1 1/4".  I replaced  the plinth blocks.

   I dismantled the entire unit and after the floor was done reinstalled the door.

   I hope someone has a simpler solution but for me at the time I didn't see any other way.

   Good Luck!

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Sep 08, 2003 05:14pm | #2

   Mac... Does the door have to be shortened by 1/2" because of the new flooring on both sides of the door??  If so think about trimming this amount from the TOP of the door as it usually has a simpler pin/mount  where the bottom may be a more complex mechanism due to the hold open feature.  The bottom (floor mounted) mechanism which is ususlly a plate secured to the floor, can then be raised the needed 1/2" with a maple or oak 'pad' the same size as the lower plate.  If the bottom has to be raised 1/2" to clear a rug or floor in one of the two rooms, think about removing the wood from the front edge back to the mechanism.  The door bottom will have a 'step' in it but if you do it correctly, it can look good AND be an easy fix.    SawdustSteve

1. 
   oddillo | Sep 08, 2003 06:02pm | #3

   Thanks for the input. This certainly looks more practical than dismantling the bottom. The other direction of swing is not a problem, so I think this will work, (fingers crossed).

3. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 09, 2003 02:40am | #4

   Mac You're talking about a pantry door mounted on a double acting 'Shelby' hinge.  To remove the door, place the door in  the open position (Hold open feature will pop into place0

   Unscrew two exposed wood screws holding floor plate to floor. Now, carefully, open door to the opposite side and remove the other two screws.

   Now with the door in that location, look up on the header at the pivot pin assembly. It will have an access hole for either a screwdriver or, just  push with  an awl.

   If the screw shows, turn the screw anti-clockwise (it will withdraw tho top pivot pin. Then the whole unit will come away from the opening.

   If you want to cut the door on the bottom, youll have to cut the hinge unit's opening the same amount as the 'riser block' (mentioned by previous poster)

   Before tackling this job, first use masking tape on the door top and the top jamb to pencil mark two or three 'witness' marks to show the placement of the hardware's pivot above the door.

   (Makes it easier to replace the pivot pin when you rehang the door) . Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 9/8/2003 7:49:55 PM ET by steinmetz