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I recall seeing a method for joining thin stock in an early issue of FWW. As I recall, it was described as a luthier’s method. It involved wooden wedges and cording tied in an “X” shape. Does anyone have a drawing or explaination of this method? I would like to try it.
Any other suggestions for joining 7+” wide 1/2″ stock? I would like to make reproduction style spice box from some curly maple I have.
Thanks,
Doug
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Try using biscuits or a spline joint. You can try to find the article on butt jointing thin stock by getting a copy of the Fine Woodworking Index. You can buy a copy for about $12-13.
*Clay,Thanks, I tried the online index but it apparenly does not pick up all of the Methods of Work. I gave my collection of FWW (back to #1) to a new wood worker. If all esle fails, I will borrow it back.Anyway, it looked like an interesting method that applied clamping pressure to both edge and face. Will try other methods if I can't find it, but really would like to experiment.Doug
*Another method for thin stick you might consider. Lay a man made board on a flat surface. Screw ( and maybe glue) a strip of narrow timber on both edges. Lay the boards you plan to join against one strip and run a pencil line along the edge of the last board. Cut another piece of timber to fill the remaining gap to the strip at the far edge, but i just cover the pencil line. Now your boards won't quite fit in unless you apply a little downward pressure. Polish up or wax this jig. Glue the requisite edges, and put the boards in place. Put some weights on the top, and level up any high edges with a hammer and block of timber. A bit of extra pressure can be applied by packing out with bits of veneer if you find you've miscalculated a bit. Another method of applying pressure is to slightly modify the above described layout and use folding wedges to provide the pressure. Sliante.
*SgianThanks. I will try this. I may even make up an adjustagle jig with one edge anchored as above and the other on screws such as a pipe clamp, etc.Regards to your apathy tag line. I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.Doug
*I'm assuming that you want to butt join to get longer boards. If so, try a scarf joint. That will give some long grain glue surface. The joint is commonly used during moulding installation in houses.Simply cut 45 degree angles on ends to be joined. Align and glue. It could be reinforced with a spline but its not necessary. Also, I have on occasion used a lap joint. That would give much more long grain. Just thoughts. If long, why not longer boards? But then I'm not really sure what you are trying to do. I've seen the luthier's method. I'm not sure but I don't think that it is applicable to this. But then? If you are trying to butt joint at 90 degree corners, a spline will work. Of course, 1/2" is thin but they do make thin slot cutters. They even make small bicuits and cutters for small parts if I'm not mistaken.
*Doug. Im not certain what it is you are trying to do.consider this. If you want to edge glue thin piecesto make wider stock, listen up.Make the best glue joint that you can on the edge of each piece.Lay them down on a flat surface edge to edge.Put a piece of masking tape accross the assembly to pull the joints together.If the pieces are about a foot long. a piece across the center and one on each end should suffice.Now,place a piece of tape long ways over each joint.Be sure to press the tape down tight.Now, turn the assembly over.Place a little block under the center to open the joints.Apply glue to the open joints with a small brush.Remove the block and let the assy.go back down on the flat surface.Put a piece or two of tape across this side of the work and let the glue dry.The hinge formed by the tape ,when closed,puts enough pressure on the joint to squeeze out the glue.I asemble mitered jewlrey boxes the same way .No distortion and no clamps required. Pat
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