Replies

1. 
   BrianMcG | Dec 15, 2003 08:14am | #1

   Hi Lefty, I bought it several years ago. It actually performs well once you get it "tuned". It has, however been collecting dust for 3-4 years. It was just too fussy to set up.

   I have since gone to a keller jig. No half blind Doves but I prefer a through dovetail anyway. As far as finger joints go, I built a simple jig a long time ago and it works just fine. (or I use my Veritas table system).

   I'll keep the Craftsman on hand in case I have to use a half blind Dove for a drawer or something but other than that, it gathers dust.

   Brian

2. 
   DaveMartins | Dec 15, 2003 05:22pm | #2

   I first purchased a generic (blue) jig off of Ebay.  After alot of frustration I threw it away.  Next I did a little research and took the recommendation of an employee of a cabinet shop and bought the porter cable 12in. for about $125.00.  It was time consuming setting the router bit hight in the router, but after created consistent perfect dove tails.  I set the router bit up in  a remanufactured Black and Decker router I purchased for about $60.00 and decided to dedicate the bit to the router.  I know just bring out the jig and router and make my joints.  The Sears will most likely be fine.  The big prise difference seems to be when going from 12in. to 16in.  In my case I couldn't justify the cost just to make a file drawer once or twice.

   Good Luck,

   Dave 

3. 
   BG | Dec 15, 2003 06:46pm | #3

   Lefty,

   I bought the generic china model for $39-49 on sale at WWW some time ago.  Once set up it cut nice half blind dovetails...I have only used it a half dozen times or so because I enjoy doing them by hand...and usually I'm only making 2-3 draws.  I think they will all work well if you know what your doing. However, knowing what I do know now from studing and applying Ian Kirby's methodology, it is a tremendous pain to learn to use one of these jigs unless you know how to do them by hand first.

   For instance, squaring your stock and marking your face side really helps keep your pieces oriented to each other.  The depth of dovetail cut should be equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the side stock...you don't really have an option with many of hte jigs.  Anyhow, my point is chooseing a jig is difficult when you don't understand the elements and protocol and therefore, can't see the tradeoffs.

   Here is a link which may be helpful

   http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/akeda3.htm
4. 
   Napie | Dec 15, 2003 06:49pm | #4

   I'll second on the Kellar Jig, I have had the 16" and the 24" for over 15 years and 200+ blanket chests, (plus countless drawers, small boxes etc.).  It is the best on the market.  The only time any adjustment is needed it when the backer board needs replaced.

1. 
   Sancho | Dec 15, 2003 10:56pm | #5

   im getting ready to buy the PC 12". I had 2 of them before and the problem with them was bolt for the hold down clamps were spot welded to the jig body and the bolt size was 10/32 the threads kept wearing out real fast and I had top replace the body of the jig. The last one I gave to a friend because I got tired of the stupid thing.

   BBBBUUUTTT,

   I was inna new woodcraft the other day and saw a new version, they changed the design from a 10/32 spot welded to the body stud to a 1/4-20 bolt which was lock nutted (if that makes sense to ya) to the body. So if you have problems with the bolt You can just loosen the lock nut and replace the bolt. but with the larger bolt size you shouldnt have that problem. Anyway Im gonna buy another one and give pc another chance . Oh yea I cost about 109 bucks from wood craft.  

   Darkworksite4:

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