Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 24, 2003 01:30am | #1

   If you find that you like a fence, but it doesn't have a microadjuster, you can get an add-on one from http://www.tahoetools.com/.

2. 
   Ricky_Yu | Jun 24, 2003 10:18am | #2

   Look into the HTC Multi-Fence System. It has your first two requirements, but does not have a magnified cursor. Can't find their website, but the phone is 248-399-6185.

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 24, 2003 05:00pm | #4

   I ordered thier catalog so I'll be taking a look at them.

3. 
   DJK | Jun 24, 2003 02:40pm | #3

   Unifence. You don't need a micro adjuster, just tap the fence with a finger. The Unifence has a high and low position. The fence can be moved forward and back on the head and used as a miter gauge stop and/or " short " rip fence. In the low position your hand, while ripping, can straddle the top of the fence. Don't think due to the odd shape jigs and hold downs can't be used. Hold downs can be attached to the T slot while in the low position. The fence can be removed and a custom fence attached the the head.

   Dave Koury

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 24, 2003 05:04pm | #5

   Unifence has been my pick for a long time but was not sure if some inovations had come onto the scene and did not want to miss out on any of them. I want to get as much as posible out of my tablesaw so I plan to go with all the bells and whistles.

4. 
   forestgirl | Jun 24, 2003 07:11pm | #6

   David, the Accusquare fence offers a dual-line cursor which is an excellent design for accurate placement (can you tell I'm over 40?).  There have been a couple of discussions here about the Accusquare recently, and owners seem very, very pleased with it.  They have a 90-day no-questions-asked return policy.  Here's the rip fence page at Mule Cabinetmaker:
   http://www.mulecab.com/products.asp?mnu_Products=1

   The best images are toward the bottom of the page.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   Mach70 | Jun 24, 2003 07:49pm | #7

   You already like the Unifence?  This is a must-have if you like attachments:

   http://www.ttrackusa.com/

   The fence Delta should have made in the first place...

6. 
   Andrew | Jun 25, 2003 01:15am | #8

   For a rock solid, super simple fence I'd recommend a beisemeyer. It's just about bullet proof, and more rigid than the unifence. It doesn't have a magnifying cursor that I know of, but you could always replace the original. as far as micro adjustments go, I use a small wooden hammer to adjust the fence once it's locked down. Don't be fooled by its simplicity, with a light tap, you can move the fence by less than .001".

   The unifence is nice, however I find that it can flex under pressure, and it is more difficult to attach jigs to the fence. The one thing I really like about it though is that you can slide the fence back and use it as a stop for repetitive cut offs. 

1. 
   DJK | Jun 25, 2003 04:32pm | #9

   Flex under what type of pressure? All fences will flex. A few years back FWW did a review where they hung a 10lb weight from the fence end, they all flexed. Lock down a Beisemeyer and lift up on the back end of the fence. You can lift it off the front rail. Now try it on a Unifence. Want a custom fence? Remove the Unifence and attach a block of lumber 2" wide/thick to the fence head and the curser is still right on.

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 25, 2003 08:43pm | #10

   I looked at the http://www.ttrackusa.com fence that goes on the unifence and am going to probably get those two. I will use the T slots to add on stuff as I think the tablesaw fence has not been maximized to it's greatest potential. Like I said I want all the bells and whistles. I don't think the unifence is overly flexy. Just look at the head and you'll see how massive that part is. Besides all I really need is a good firm guide on the side as I pass the blade.

1. 
   DJK | Jun 26, 2003 02:30pm | #12

   It's your money but I wouldn't buy the ttrackusa gizmo. Just as I said, remove the oem fence and build whatever fence configuration you need. I have 3 Uinfences and one is in the low position with roller hold downs. Make your gizmos for the fence, don't purchase them.

   I have been doing this for 40 years and I don't understand why some people can make funiture but would rather purchase a jig instead of building one.

   Dave Koury

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 26, 2003 02:48pm | #13

   I'll take another look before I buy the ttrack. I like the way it has more T slots in it, but I can always buy later. In the past I've made all my own jigs and stuff with some success. Sometimes I spent to much time building jigs.

2. 
   Mach70 | Jun 26, 2003 08:03pm | #14

   >I have been doing this for 40 years and I don't understand why some people can make funiture but would rather purchase a jig instead of building one.

   I'll play devils advocate & say why would anyone want to waste time making such a jig when you could be making, and selling furniture?

   The Ttrackusa fence is well made & reasonably priced ($70 or $80).  It allows you to mount hold-downs (wheels, featherboards, etc.) much closer to the face of the fence than you can with the Unifence.

3. 
   DJK | Jun 27, 2003 02:37pm | #17

   Sort of like the people that will pay $12 for a table saw insert when for the same amount they could purchase a 1/2 sheet of plywood and make 10 or more. Or make their own 5 stage turbine HVLP spray system for less than half the price of an off the shelf unit.

   My wheel hold downs are very close to the face of the Unifence, in fact they can be adjusted to touch the fence.

   Dave Koury

   Edited 6/27/2003 11:00:54 AM ET by DJK

4. 
   forestgirl | Jun 27, 2003 06:59pm | #18

   That's $19.00+ for the inserts.  A relevant point, as making an insert is a woodworking task, and I agree completely.  However, with regard to the HVLP project, not everyone has the mechanical inclination to take on such a project.  As a not-so-young novice woodworker, my priorities lie in learning woodworking, and extensive amounts of time learning how to make an HVLP sprayer just take time away from that effort.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   DJK | Jun 28, 2003 03:13am | #19

   Woodworking is woodworking, whether building furniture, casework or building a sprayer. Building jigs is a great example. If its not exact your work piece will be off, teaches you to be precise. As for an extensive amount of time to build a sprayer, it's a good course in planning and layout. It's just a box to hold the motors, but they must fit. Mechanical inclination, what do you think using a hand or powertool is.

   A lot of people know how to work wood but get them in the shop and they don't know which end of the chisel to use. Like in trade school, they ace the test but get them in the lab and they cant't tell the difference between a pump and an acumulator. Life is a learning experience, if you don't learn anything building a sprayer you must have a problem.

   Dave Koury

6. 
   forestgirl | Jun 28, 2003 05:51am | #20

   Dave, I simply don't have the insterest or desire to learn how to build a sprayer.  And that is not a problem, just a preference.  There are plenty of other projects I can take on that will give me "a good course in planning and layout" and teach me to be "precise."  Actually, I'm in the middle of one right now, so pardon me, but out to the shop I go.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

7. 
   imcanadian | Jun 29, 2003 01:37pm | #23

   Ok, I'll bite. How do you make an hvlp system?

2. 
   Andrew | Jun 26, 2003 06:51am | #11

   You're right, all fences flex, it has just been my experience that the unifence flexes a little more than the beisemeyer. For most work it wouldn't be a big deal, but it has been noticable when working with heavier boards (over 2" thick and 12" wide maple for example). I guess part of it is also personal preference, but what I can say is that I was determined to put a unifence on whatever TS I bought, but when I got my 350 it came with a beisemeyer, and after using it for a while I ended up liking it more than the unifence (which I've had a fair amount of experience with too)

2. 
   patricks13 | Jun 28, 2003 11:53pm | #21

    

    On the subject of which fence flexes most I once worked in a shop with four well used  beisemeyers that I thought flexed too much. We got a new Powermatic with the  Beisemeyer clone and I thought it flexed less. When I got my new Unifence I thought it flexed about as much as the new Powermatic. This brings up the possibility that age has something to do with flexing.

    

   I think the biggest advantage of the Unifence is ripping hardwood with the fence just past the back of the blade. I use the stock two bolt Delta splitter with the kickback paws ground off which extends about two inches past the back of the table, which works to guide the wood past the blade. If wood is going to warp from cutting, be it case hardening or internal growth stress, it doesn't press against the fence pushing the board away from the fence and into the blade because when it warps after the cut it is now past the fence.

    

   I remember ripping some thick hardwood on that 5hp 3 phase Powermatic that warped while cutting. I couldn't push the board forward anymore, I knew what would happen if I tried to back out of the cut, so I held the board down while smoke came out of the cut and yelled for someone to shut the machine off. Not my idea of a good time.

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 29, 2003 02:24am | #22

   I agree Pat. Using the fence with the end of it adjacent to the blade is a good technique. I made my own splitter out of a circular saw blade. Slightly thinner than the saw kerf and twisted so the trailing edge held over the stock being milled. My powermatic 65 lets me bolt it right behind the sawblade

7. 
   johnhardy | Jun 26, 2003 08:35pm | #15

   I've got the Incra TS-III and love it. It locks down in the front and can also be locked down in the back. Up to you as to whether you use none, one, or both lockdowns.

   It's a micro-adjustable fence and moves in 1/32nd of an inch increments, with a micro dial for fine tuning in increments of 1/1000th of an inch. There are many scales which can be used and you don't need a magnifier. It's metal so add-on features can be bought or shop-made. Well worth the investment, IMHO.

   John

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 27, 2003 12:22am | #16

   I could see using it on a second saw but not my primary saw. I have a smaller 9" that might be set up for more specialized stuff. Incra has taken the indexing guides to a new level.