I am now looking at purchasing a new jointer-type hand plane, specifically the Lie-Nielson #7. My small planes just aren’t cutting it size-wise for this job despite their being razor sharp. I now really see the neccessity of having a totally flat bench top and it seems that a plane made specifically for this purpose may be a wise purchase.
For this and other purposes down the road can anyone recommend this plane…or another?(#6 or #8 or another instead?)
Thanks for your time.
Mike
Replies
Mike when jointing by hand I always go for my #8. The longer sole and extra weight make it a better plane for me. With that said the #7 in my shop gets little use as I like the extra heft but Several buddies swear that they will never use a #8 because the don't like the weight when planeing large jobs. To me it boils down to preference. I like my 4 1/2 better than my 4 and my 5 1/2 and 6 better than my 5 and 5 1/4. So if you like the extra heft in your tools then get the #8 if not the #7 will get the same results. A #6 is getting a little to short for jointing but I use mine as a jack plane on bigger jobs.
Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website
"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
I have a LN #7. Wonderful plane. What can I say? I also have a LN low angle block plane, #4, #4 1/2 with high angle frog, shoulder plane, etc. The #7 is really nice.
Stephen J. Gaal
Mike,
I tend to use a No6 as a general purpose plane - way I was trained (trade cabinetmaker). It's long enough to flatten tabletops, etc... I recently jointed a complete table by hand - 8' long. No problems at all getting a straight edge with a No 6, but it would have been quicker and easier with the longer plane.
While it is easier to joint with a No8, you won't be reaching for it often and it could become an expensive rust collector.
The No6, I find, is light enough to use for hours at a stretch if need be, but long enough to do the job.
Just my two cents, others may differ.
Cheers,
eddie
I love my six but I tend to go for the #8 most of the time to joint edges and flatten tops then move on to the #6 or #4 1/2 depending on the surface. I have both setup as smoothers and will grab the right plane for the size of the job.
It just goes to show you that no matter what we tell him it will all boil down to what he finds feels right.Scott C. Frankland
Scott's WOODWORKING Website"This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"
Anything in the 6-8 range will do the job well, but like others have said, the shorter/narrower ones will probably be more use outside of heavy jointing and flattening. I haven't touched my 7 in months; the 8 is set for heavier work, and the 6 is set fine for near finishing. The extra width and weight of the 8 make very short work of getting things close.
If you are focused on a new plane, you might want to take a look at Cliftons, too. Nice lines, little cheaper, and supposedly a little more work to fettle (never thought of that as a problem). Green, too, but you get used to that....
/jvs
I have an ECE Jointer (22") and love it. The adjuster is very positive, easily disassembled for sharpening and has just enough heft to power through some tough cuts.
Last summer I built a bedroom suite for my son and daughter-in-law for their wedding, all from alder. I jointed over 300 bdf with it, working as much as 10 hours at a time.
Great plane and you can find it for around $180/$190.
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