Hello! I’m attempting to purchase a used jointer. I found a Delta 6” bench top jointer (37-071) for $200. Sounds like the blades are still sharp, only used a handful of times, but there’s a light layer of rust that’s coating the fence and the plane surface. The seller said that he was able to lightly sand off the rust in a small area and doesn’t think it would be a problem, he’s just not been using it. Would anyone be able to help advise whether or not this is a good deal and a “safe” purchase with the rust?
Replies
If your workpieces are less than 2 feet long and you only need to edge joint this could work. If you work larger or need to face joint look for a longer bed machine. You can't mill twist out of a 2' long board on a 14" infeed table.
I think buying this will teach you what to look for in a lointer, so it might be worth it for the learning experience alone.
Judging by the photo, the rust is minimal and will clean up just fine.
This could be a good jointer for small projects such as jewelry boxes, humidors, picture frames, etc....
If the lumber you wish to joint is longer than 28 inches (14 inch infeed table x 2), this might be too small for your needs.
Mike
The rust is minimal, and would not deter me in the least. But the size would.
Why not get a new hand plane for jointing instead
Make sure all the critical parts are there and in good shape. Parts for delta machines are getting hard to find since they went out of business.
Delta is still in business - well, sort of. Delta was bought by a Chinese company about 10 years ago and it has been downhill since then.
They simply refuse to stock repair parts for more than a couple of years. After that, you're out of luck.
I have an older version of this and it has served me well for my small projects. Sure a full size jointer would be better, but not everyone needs one. Surface rust looks manageable. I am shocked at the price these go for new, so it looks like a fair price for this one. Check the table adjustment hex bolts to make sure they're not rusted shut.
I think people are being a bit pessimistic about the length of wood that can be jointed. I admit that I am a bit spoiled with 2 jointers, 8" and 24" wide, with 6' beds. But I routinely straighten out 8-10' boards on them just fine. Of course, the 6" width is a bit limiting for face jointing, but you can do a lot of work with it by ripping stock to rough width for your parts (like cabinet door frames) before you face joint them.
My favorite way to remove rust from cast iron is to sharpen a putty knife with a file at 90º to the blade, till you have a sharp 90º edge, then just scrape the rust off, with the handle fairly high. Unless you get wild, it doesn't affect the cast iron at all. Then I steel wool it a bit and apply paste wax.
Straightening 10' ft boards is easily done on 6' jointers but all but impossible on that little jointer.
I will also urge caution with your advice to rip boards down to face joint on that small jointer. Ripping rough wood on a tablesaw is not a safe operation unless done using a jointer sled, but it can be done safely on a bandsaw. But the edge will be less straight.
Thank you Esch for adding the ripping information I forgot to include. NEVER rip rough, crooked, or reactive wood on a table saw, unless you like ruined wood and injury! Use a bandsaw, saber saw, or (more risky for kickback) a "skilsaw". Or a rip hand saw or bow saw.
I love my two big jointers, but they only save me lots of time and effort. I use them all the time to prepare stock. However, I would hate to give up my jointer plane, as I use it frequently to refine the edge coming off the jointer for a slightly sprung glue joint.
I appreciate everyone’s replies! I guess my next question is, what is the rule of thumb on length of stock compared to the jointer bed length?
The rule of thumb is a jointer can reliably straighten lumber up to twice the length of its' infeed table.
Of course, rules are made to be broken and I'm sure you can find someone that has built a king-size bed using a bench top jointer!
Mike
I'll echo what Mike has said, that little jointer will have no place in a shop of someone looking to build full sized furniture but could have some use for someone building cutting boards, boxes, and other small pieces. I think if it was me I would learn to sharpen, tune and use a few good hand planes rather than deal with that jointer.
I will close by saying buying that jointer just to say you have a jointer could be ill advised, make sure that you understand its significant limitations and that it will fit your type of Woodworking now and in the near future.
I agree with @MikeInOhio - pieces much more than twice the length of the infeed table don't register enough wood on the table to straighten really well.
That having been said, you CAN joint 8' bed rails on a small jointer (mine has 2'6" tables) if you are willing to take your time, have an assistant and don't need absolute perfection. A large supply of intoxicating substances for afterwards is also essential. I'd be leery of using such 'jointing' for glue-up but it is fine to make a registration edge for a table-saw. That having been said, I've put a deposit on a new jointer with longer beds largely because I like making big furniture.
Light rust, heavy rust or even a bit of pitting is not a problem. Cast iron is tough and you can sand it and polish it no problem.
I restored this 12" American that was found laying in the woods at a sawmill.
The table has some pitting but it polished up with sanding through the grits and it worked perfectly.
Do you have a planer? If so,Get a melamine board the width of your planer and as long as the boards you usually use.Or make a few corresponding to the typical lengths of the wood you use.Put a cleat at one end 1/8 above the bottom and 1/2 above the top.Screw the cleat to all the sleds strongly.Cut some small wedges,place the board to be joined on the sled,hot glue wedges to take the rock out of the board to be joined(ie one side planed) and put the sled and board through the plainer as many times as it takes to "join"the top.Remove from sled,flip over and plane till you get to the thickness you want.
I do a similar thing with my planer and your thing may work for you but I would suggest using something other than screws. Somehow, no matter what, if there's a piece of metal around my planer will find it!
You can FLATTEN boards with a planer but they don't join edges very well. That jointer that the op is looking at might be handy for some things, like small stuff or if you have a jointer but want something for the road, but then a hand held power planer might do just as well. I'd suggest looking for a larger size used jointer. They're on Craigslist all the time, 6" jointers are a dime a dozen and a floor model can be had for a price not much different than the one your looking at . There are a lot out there that have been nothing but paint can holders since they were new! Wider than six then not as common and a bump in price but sometimes some pretty good deals.
I inherited a 6" Rockwell Delta jointer and quickly realized it wasn't for me due to the small 24" total bed length. Always wanted a 12" wide model but never pulled the trigger. My planer and a BU #7 have worked for me.
If you have the space and the power and maybe a lowboy the really best deals out there are for really heavy duty industrial stuff. I run into stuff like that all the time and often for scrap metal prices. Recent finds : a 24 " jointer from the Navy Yards that must have been 20 feet long. Free! A 12" Northfield that was pristine and belonged to a friend that died. I had used that jointer. It needed nothing ! The widow wanted $2500 . There's a giant Yates American 16" on SF Craigslist right now for $1500. A newish looking Schneider 20" for $4500 also on Craigslist, that I just noticed. You need a big room is there problem.
Some interesting comment on this sort of issue in the latest STL, if there is still any interest in the thread.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/11/05/stl253-woodworking-is-just-tricks-and-fixing-mistakes
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