Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 10, 2006 08:11pm | #1

   Sapwood,

   CAB-Acrylic lacquer goes down water white and doesn't yellow with age. It's one of my favorite finishes on maple, because I really dislike yellowed maple. I have used the Sherwyn Willams product and find it excellent. If you get it, also get their matching high solids sanding sealer.

   CAB-Acrylic handles just like Niotrocellulose, so if you have experience spraying that, you should have no problems.

   But don't rule out water-borne products. I have been using Varathane's water based polyurethane. Not only does it harden rock hard, it is a pleasure to apply. However, you MUST give it time to cure before rubbing it out. A month is not too long to wait. But if you let it cure properly, it can be finished to rival any fine lacquer or shellac finish from crystal clear, with brilliant fire and depth, to a satin look, depending on the final grit of the rub out. There is NO "plastic look" to this finish.

   Rich

1. 
   sapwood | Jun 11, 2006 12:06am | #2

   Thank you, Rich. The Sherywn Williams was on my list of possibilities. Good tip on the sealer.I've been told that this finish is difficult to repair. Any experience there or comment?

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 11, 2006 02:25am | #3

   It's no different to repair than nitro. Each succeeding coat completely bonds to the previous by disolving it.You may be confusing the name CAB (Cellulose Acetate Butyrate) with CATylized lacquers or varnishes. They are a different story. They ARE hard to repair.Rich

2. 
   peter28 | Jun 11, 2006 06:03am | #4

   Rich,

   What type of projects are you using the Varathane on?  Have you been able to go back and look at them after a time? I'm always curious on how the newer finishes age.

   We have such a history with some coatings that we know what to expect. In conversations with the owner of a coating company specializing in water based coatings, I know they are always tweaking them and trying to make them better. 

   How was the build with that brand? And how many coats dd you use for your final mil thickness.

   That was good advice on the Cab lacquer. Sherwin Williams also has a vinyl sealer at 24% solids that works great with the CAB.

   Peter

1. 
   Rich14 | Jun 11, 2006 07:39am | #6

   Peter,I have used the water based poly ONLY on maple. My experience with it is just short of 2 years. I like it a lot. As I described above, it MUST be given enough time to cure, then it handles beautifully with all manner of rubbing. I have finished with 400 grit wet or dry then 4-0 steel wool abd stopped there for a soft satin surface, or gone up through 1200 grit, then automotive rubbing comp., polishing comp. and then swirl remover for the ultimate clarity.The SW vinyl sealer w/ 24% solids was the one I meant when I referred to high solids. Very good products.Rich

2. 
   Rich14 | Jun 11, 2006 04:05pm | #8

   Peter,. . . didn't answer your question about build . . .I generally sand to 220, then put on the first coat. This raises the grain, big time. I knock back the grain after 48 hrs with 220. It sands very easiy. Sometimes the next coat also raises the grain. More sanding with 220.Then 3 additional coats, 24-48 hrs apart with 320 abraision to a uniform dull surface between each. The last coat sits a month before I start the final rubbing process.

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 11, 2006 06:19am | #5

   I've put a waterborne over metallic leaf.   It was Target's EM8000, applied with an HVLP.   It worked well.

   Here's one thing I learned the hard way....   Metallic leaf has something on it -- wax, oil, grease, I dunno -- which interferes severely with the flow-out and curing of the waterborne finish.   I found that washing the leaf (after it's been applied!) with denatured alcohol degreases it, and the waterborne works just like it should.

1. 
   sapwood | Jun 11, 2006 10:07am | #7

   What metallic leaf did you use? The artificial gold or silver is actually aluminum. That could explain the problem since aluminum oxidizes readily. Although, come to think of it, I have used the aluminum leaf before and had no problems with finishes. I'm not using aluminum on this piece.Thanks for the input.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jun 11, 2006 04:52pm | #9

   Leaf works under solvent-based finishes without alchohol cleaning.   Waterborne finishes want it.   I don't think it has anything to do with oxidation.  I think there is residue on the leaf from the wax paper in the book, or perhaps oil from the manufacturing process.