Replies

1. 
   esch5995 | Jan 27, 2024 07:10pm | #1

   If those are commercial cabinets the door style/name has little bearing outside of the manufacturers catalog and I don't recognize them as any generally recognized furniture style.

   As far as construction, again if they are commercial cabinets they are most likely just two applied moldings a half round on the interior and a rabbetted bull nose molding around the perimeter with mitered corners.

2. 
   rob_ss | Jan 28, 2024 01:34am | #2

   Agreeing with esch - never seen this style before. It has a bit of a Mid Century Modern vibe going on - I have seen such with applied beading as described.
   I would consider cock-beading to be inscribed into the door face, whilst this looks to have been applied. I suspect it is fancy edgebanding as the faces are almost certainly plywood, albeit jointed rather than rotary cut veneers.

3. 
   hotdogman | Jan 28, 2024 10:25am | #3

   Take a look at this video by Tom McLaughlin for cock beading. It is a drawer but same process.
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSS4-MVBNLs&t=4790s

4. 
   doorty | Jan 28, 2024 10:59am | #4

   Thanks. I think esch nailed it with the moldings. And I think rob is right about it being plywood. For the edges of the faces that don't have the molding, do you think hot melt veneer edge banding would hold up to kitchen use? A strip of hardwood on the edge would have the grain running perpendicular and might throw off the look. Thoughts?

1. 
   esch5995 | Jan 28, 2024 12:21pm | #5

   Commercial manufacturers would use a heat set veneer on the edges, but in a small shop the trick is getting the heat right and consistent pressure especially at the edges. Done properly it should be fine,but solid wood T-molding would be more durable and consistent but also more noticeable in cross grain applications.

2. 
   DRBWWing | Jan 29, 2024 10:29am | #7

   Edge banding is ok but....eventually high use doors it wants to detach. That's been my experience, anyway.

   If you have the tools/skills, I would mill up some 1/4" stock, round over one edge, cut miters and apply it as an edge banding. A little more involved is they are inset.

5. 
   _mj_ | Jan 28, 2024 01:46pm | #6

   Have a look behind door #3:

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2002/06/01/six-ways-to-edge-plywood

6. 
   doorty | Feb 23, 2024 01:04am | #8

   When you apply mouldings to a 3/4" drawer face in a kitchen, what would be a suitable gauge nail. Would you recommend a 18 gauge brad nail (and just fill the hole)? I think my pinless 23 gauge would be too weak without wood glue which would lead to difficult removal of squeeze out.