Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 04, 2003 03:47am | #1

   Re plunge routing the shelf pin holes....   First, this sounds like a great excuse to go buy a new tool, so what's your problem?   <G>  Okay, second, you might reconsider the router you've got.  It probably has a base-plate diameter of 6" or so.   That means that the column of holes can't get any closer to the top or the bottom than 3".  That's probably okay -- who needs to put a shelf that close to the top or the bottom?   The 6" diameter also means the rear column of holes can't be any closer to the back than 3".   This is a little dodgy, but probably okay.   The shelves are about 11" deep, so there is considerably more shelf in front of the rear pins than behind them.  This means they're not likely to rotate around the rear pin and fall.  In fact, the more load you put on the shelf, the more stable it will get -- unless you manage to put your entire load on the back 3" of the shelf.

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 04, 2003 03:55am | #2

   My base plate actually puts me about 3 1/2 inches from the cabinet back. I was thinking that was too far, maybe not though. I was thinking about the 1.5 hp Porter Cable that comes with both bases, but I just got the fixed base version of that machine last year.

   See, my wife is catching on... she will actually say something about a 3rd router.

   :)

   Edited 12/3/2003 7:58:08 PM ET by petmonkey

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 04, 2003 04:22am | #3

   Can't you buy the plunge base for that PC separately?  If it isn't on the shelf at your tool store, try the PC service center.  They can order any repair parts, so they could probably order just the plunge base.  "Look, honey, I'm saving money!"

   Edited 12/3/2003 8:24:50 PM ET by JAMIE_BUXTON

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 04, 2003 04:41am | #4

   Well hmmm... I didn't even think of that. Now THAT would be a wonderful thing.

2. 
   stevemorris | Dec 04, 2003 11:30pm | #13

   wow only the third?, im up to 8, 7 of which have the bit taken out

   shelf holes, make a jig and use a drill with a depth stop

   glueing carcases? well that depends on the material, melamine panels cant be glued unless rabbetted

   melamine carcases, i just biscuit join and clamp for 10 minutes

   i wouldnt just rely on pocket screws, another option is conformat screwscaulking is not a piece of trim

1. 
   numbfinger | Dec 05, 2003 01:38am | #14

   Hey - thanks guys...

   Come to find out - the plunge base for the 1 1/2 hp  porter cable is just about the same size as the base for the 3 1/4 hp. So I guess I'll just use my plunge router with a spiral bit. I've made a jig based on a couple of your suggestions.

   I can't quite bring myself to use a drill for my shelf pins, although I might have to on a couple of the narrower pieces. I just can't drill straight enough(especially with peg board for a guide) to guarantee that my shelves won't rock.

   I didn't glue the carcasses together - it was a little too late when I asked :)

   I have 4 pocket holes per 23 1/2" depth. The material is 1/2" birch plwood. They seem to be holding pretty well with little or no flex to them. I suppose I could dissasemble all the carcasses - rout my shelf pins, and screw and glue the whole shebang back together - but then again...

   Thanks again for the suggestions!

2. 
   woodshaver | Dec 04, 2003 05:14am | #5

   HI petmonkey,   there are other ways to cut shelf pin holes I sometimes use

    1/4" ply,3" wide and center the holes at 1.5" hold them up 6" from the top and

     bottom and drill them out on the drill press 2" apart. take this peice of ply and

    use it has a guide to drill the holes in the cabinet sides ,the holes are 1.5" from the front and back. I drill them with a 1/4" brad point(sharp) with a wood block stop.   pocket screw and glue will work , I like to use confirmat screws to hold  cabinets together,or biscuits.    good luck   mark

1. 
   Sancho | Dec 04, 2003 05:21am | #6

   Rockler has a nice little jig with a vix bit. You can even buy a bit so you can use a metal insert for the shelf pins. I think the jig w/ bit runs about 20 bucks 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   BrianF | Dec 04, 2003 06:18pm | #8

   Just like Ron said I use the vix bit method, but I make my own jigs with 3/8 holes 2" apart. The bit then drills a 1/4" hole for the shelf clip. I start my first hole 10" up from the bottom, you don't need a shelf closer to the bottom than that. Always remember to keep the same end of the jig to the bottom, mine has "bottom" in big black letters.

   I always glue anything that I screw unless it is ment to be disassembled at a later point.

   Edited 12/4/2003 10:20:58 AM ET by BrianF

2. 
   Dan019 | Dec 04, 2003 07:31pm | #9

   Rockler has a nice little jig with a vix bit. You can even buy a bit so you can use a metal insert for the shelf pins. I think the jig w/ bit runs about 20 bucks

   http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=919&catid=54&objectgroup_id=224

   Here's the link he's referring to

   Dan

3. 
   BenM | Dec 04, 2003 03:45pm | #7

   Since these cabinets are for your own use, rather than a client, you don't need to provide a whole run of holes.  You probably already know what you want to store in the cabinets; just drill the few holes you do need.  Use a portable drill (and simple jig to ensure the holes are all at the same level).

4. 
   john | Dec 04, 2003 07:42pm | #10

   Whether you need to use glue and/or groovs, dados etc will also depend on the qualities of the material you are using. Pocket screws into decent quality plywood (eg birch ply 3/4" with 15 laminations) will produce a strong joint which can be entirely adequate depending on the design of the cabinet. The main loads on a run of cabinets will be vertical, and ideally the screws shouldn't be taking any vertical loads, but simply be keeping drawer rings and bases in place.

   John

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 04, 2003 08:15pm | #11

   A piece of 1/8" thick pegboard works well for a guide for drilling the holes.  If you drill them, then use a stop collar on the drill bit else the bit may grap and cut through the side. 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

5. 
   SCFrankland | Dec 04, 2003 08:16pm | #12

   Lee Valley sells a system for drilling holes for shelves. They also have hardened steel inserts that you can use to make your own jig.

   But if it where me then I would get the other router base and make my own jig.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=42200&category=1,180,42311&ccurrency=1&SID=

   Scott C. Frankland

   Scott's WOODWORKING Website

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

6. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 05, 2003 01:32pm | #15

   Petro, drill bushings are the way to go, if you're making a template for drilling multiple holes. For an occasional use,(or a one time only application,) I suppose masonite with ready drilled holes would suffice. Drill bushings are hardened and ground very accurate guides used for thousands of repeat drilling.  I.have many with flanged ends that won't rock when hand held drilling is required.Also handy are the many inserts that I slide into the flanged one to accomodate smaller sized bits.  Cheap and available substitutes for drill bushings for pattern drilling are Tee Nuts. Although limited to a few sizes, they can be used 'As Is', or, drilled or reamed to larger size. Stein.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/5/2003 5:36:04 AM ET by steinmetz