I am looking at purchasing a tablesaw and cannot decide between the Grizzly 1023SL or the new General 50-220. The only difference that I am aware of thus far is that the 1023 has 3hp and the General only 2. However, I still need to call General and determine if there saw is available in a left hand model. I guess my questions are will I ever notice the difference between a 2 or 3 hp saw? Does right or left tilt really make a huge difference?
Once again I am suffering from analysis paralysis when it comes time to make a large purchase.
Any suggestions?
Replies
HI Eric
My unisaw is only 2hp and it works just fine. The only time you might notice a difference is when cuting 8/4 or larger hardwood and you could still negate the 3 hp advantage with a good rip blade if you really felt the need. I've had mine for over 8 yrs. and never had any power problems.
As far as let tilt right tilt the only advantage of the left tilt would be in beveling wide boards. This too can be negated by using Steve Latta's technique for beveling large panels. It was in FWW a couple of years back, it works fantastic. It's the only way I bevel panels.
Dan
I not so sure the 50-220 is a true cabinet saw where the trunnion is mounted to the cabinet. I inqired about it a woodworking show in Oct. I could be mistaken but I believe it's trunion is mounted to the table like a contractors saw. It's something I'd definitely check out. The Grizzly 1023SL weighs over 100 lbs more and I think some of that is due to a more massive trunnion. General's web site shows the saw in a left tilt version (50-220C) and it comes with the General T square fence- an excellent fence. As for left or right tilt, I'm used to right tilt but have used left tilts (PM 66) in some shops I've worked at.............. think it comes down to personal preference and you'll find diehards for left and right tilt. As for hp more is usually better but having said that my old Delta contractors saw was rated for 2hp when wired for 220 and with a good blade would happily cut 8/4 maple and oak.
A couple of questions- Do you plan to bevel wide boards frequently?
If so, are you planning to get the 7' rails and extension table? They make cutting anything large a lot easier. What do you have for blades? Spend the money and get the best ones for what you will be cutting. Do you think you'll be cutting thick stock fairly often? With a great blade, you can do it on a lower HP saw. If the blade is allowed to get dull, it'll be harder to do. It will also be a lot less safe on any saw, more so of the motor slows down and grabs the wood.I hadn't seen the General saw till after I got my Grizzly. If there's a 100 lb difference, it could be heavier trunnions, or it could be that the Grizzly table is a bit thicker. 100 lb of cast iron doesn't take up a lot of space, so it wouldn't be very noticeable. The tools that look very similar are made in the same factories, it's a matter of how the seller specifies them and the level of finish they demand. I have the G1023S and added the 7" rails, extension table and mobile base. I use a Forrest Woodworker II 40 tooth when I need a really clean cut, an Oldham 40 tooth for particle board, MDF, wood that I think may have chunks of anything I don't want to ding my Forrest with or melamine coated particle board. If I'm cutting clean substrate with laminate and need a straight, clean cut, I use the Forrest. I spent a little time, made the adjustments and checked the accuracy of the saw a few times before I decided that it was where I wanted it. I really like this saw. I used to have a problem with trusting the tape on the rail until I finished the setup. I now check the pieces occasionally, just to make sure. It's dead nuts on. One thing about the fences, the G1023 has a nice sturdy one and it's wide and doesn't move when I don't want it to. It has HDPE on both faces which is OK, but I think I'm going to change it to Baltic birch with resin coating on both sides. The HDPE grows a bit when it's really hot and can become a little wavey. This is also the reason I don't like HDPE zero clearance inserts. If it's really hot, it's hard to get out of the throat of the saw. This is the only think I am going to change, other than adding an outfeed table behind it since I cut a lot of sheet goods and long stock. Mine is the right tilt and I have never had a board get pinched between the blade and fence. I have been using roller stands at the same height as the table and they have worked well so far. If you want the long rails, I think they may give a price break for the package, but you can ask them about it. Grizzly is going to increase their prices as of Jan 1 and I think it's going to be that way with most companies, due to the metals market worldwide. They also have great customer service.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 12/19/2004 11:30 am ET by highfigh
I'm not overly familiar with the model, but I think "jc" is right....The 50-220 is a hybrid with a nice fence. GI's cabinet saws are the 50-250 and 50-260...right tilt/left tilt. Both of these are very nice saws, but are in the $1400 range.
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