I saw some outstanding work on a site recently the main distinction being the very clever use of ‘cabriol’ legs, seems more than any leg variation they allow for significant personal interpretation…However before I get to that and spending days figuring the hows and whys I’d be grateful for any pointers, concerning techniques for their production….kind regards….Iain
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There are several excellent articles on making cabriole legs; you might want to check out. Jeffery Greens book on 18th Century Furniture, Norm Vandals book on Queen Anne Furniture, Sept/Oct 2000 FWW and Nov 1988 FWW. The key to a successful leg is the pattern, for two reasons. First, because of the way the leg is attached to the piece, what looks like a well-shaped pattern, can make for a poorly shaped finished leg. This is because the curves appear different depending on your perspective. Many times you will see legs that are too "stiff" or worse have exaggerated curves, and look as if the legs are buckling under the weight of the piece. Second the pattern needs to have smoothly flowing curves, and of course the shape must accurately sawn on the leg stock. The best approach is to make your pattern and then make a leg in some cheap stock (pine, poplar etc.) and see how it looks. Stock selection is very important you want straight grain material for strength. The growth rings must come as close to running diagonally across the blank as possible, and these rings should point in the direction of the front corner of the post block. This orientation makes for the best possible grain pattern on the finished leg. Quatersawn material is out of the question for cabriole legs.
Also, to achieve the characteristic flowing shape, it helps to work quickly using cutting tools, such as the drawknife and spoke shave. This how period cabinetmakers would have worked. The only place I use a rasp/file is at the transition of the ankle to the pad foot, and at the knee to leg post.
I have read that you should proceed with each step in the shaping process on each leg, but I have found it better to make one leg all the way through and then make the other legs to match that first one. After you have made one or two, you will be able to produce high quality legs in a very short period of time.
Rob I'm new to this forum and having a few probs getting the hang of things, this being my 2nd response to your kind note....However much thanks for your pointers, particularly the books and the approach to grain orientation....take care ...Iain
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