When you calibrate your machines (particularly machines purchased used), do you take a cut and test approach or do you use measuring tools? If measuring tools what do you use? Do you own a reference straight edge, if so what?
I recently acquired a long bed jointer, planer and sliding table saw.
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I use dial incidator with magnetic base for calibration. For jointers I use a fairly thick straightedge made from sheet metal. It was cut for me at a sheet metal fabricaotrs shop. It is accurate and inexpensive. I also use magnetic devices to hold jointer and planer knives when installing them. Digital readout vernier calipers are also used frequently.
All of the above.
A few good squares are important to have. These should be checked for square before use. Large and small straight edges are always useful have a 10' by 4" by 1.5" aluminum U-channel that has many uses. A few very straight pieces of sound plywood are also usefull, and the odd steel ruler. A jig for setting planer knives may save you some grief. Joiner knives can usually be set using a short straight edge. You will need to check your machines both with gauges and with product. They don't always jibe, there may be other factors affecting the outcome that need adjusting. A good way to check cuts for 90 dg. is to make two cuts, butt the cuts together and see if they produce a perpendicular straight line. This method works well on sliding panel saws as well as chop saws. You will need to check old machines as well as new for correct adjustment.
I hope some of this was helpful.
Cheerz,
Glendo.
The long bed jointer will want to be checked with a long staright edge as your first step. Jack the tables into line if they need it and proceed with setting up the knives. Magnetic jigs, dial indicators and all else is helpful. You got to do this whenever you move the machine to a new location. The sliding table saw wants to be calibrated with straight edges and levels also first and then with whatever measuring, calibrating devices you have to satisfy your need for accuracy (mine is high). All these devices have a learning curve commensurate with your need to have accurate parts except for the jointer setup which always needs to be right on. The planer has setup guides which are particular to its own and need to adhered to. Dial indicator, setup blocks etc are useful as you need to set knives as well as bed feed rollers and pressure bar/rollers. My advice? Tackle the machine ytou are most interested in and do them as you need them. aloha, mike
Mike, what would be the ideal length for the straight edge for a 112" Jointer, infeed table is 5 foot long. I have not bought yet, and don't want to get too short to do job properly. Also, the straight edges I see have differing tolerances; what I have seen available is .005, .003 and .012 over for example a 72" length.
There is an excellent book on machine set up written by - hmmmm- what's the first thing to go - a FWW editor, sorry, can't remember, John ... You might consider picking up a copy.
Yep, recently purchased it...
96 inch should work and be available. I have a Starret for my Oliver jointer and it gets used when ever the machine gets repositioned which has been more times than I would have guessed in 16 years. The Starret is heavy and expensive but accurate. Anything in the tolerance you described should work as the beds are what they are and you just need a reference for how they lay. Good luck. aloha, mike
I crank the sucker up and make a cut on some scrap wood..
I look and measure it.. Then I get out my micrometers...
I have something to compare to... In case I mess up and made it worser!
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