I’m making a mantle and I’d like to insert a 2″ copper band that will be between to pieces of 1×2 turned on edge. My thought was to make the band like a laminate counter top. I would use contact adhesive to adhere the copper to a piece of stock then trim it flush with a straight bit. The copper would be the same used for flashing. Any thoughts? -Ed
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Replies
ED:
I've worked with copper in other projects a couple of times, but have only cut it using a jig saw. The jig saw left a ragged edge that I had to fold under and hammer which was a pain, but here's a couple of observations that might apply to your situation:
1. get the thinnest gauge copper possible - it is easier to handle
2. when cutting it little tiny hot bits of metal fly out all over the place, wear long pants, sleeves, and face protection, oh and don't touch the edge for a few moments after it is cut (yeah, I found this out the hard way :))
This doesn't answer your question I know but maybe you'll avoid some burnt fingers.
Regards
Alison
You can trim it easily with a router. I usually put a cloth filter on the top of the router which is the air intake. Obviously copper is conductive. You might check out http://www.chmetal.com/
I believe Wilsonart, Formica, etc. also have such products.
There's also the issue of a finish. It will change from the bright copper color unless coated. The nice thing about the metal laminates is they have nice finishes and have done all the homwork for you so they tell you how to apply and maintain them.
Plus many of the laminate companies sell metal laminates nowadays. You can cut copper and brass with a table saw as well. I've cut miles of it over the years. A negative hook blade is recommended for non-ferrous, gives a better cut than with shears. Thin stuff you would back it up on a piece of ply or particle board.
Thinner stuff is easier to handle but wrinkley. The thicker stuff I find cuts easier on a tablesaw but the stuff on rolls is hard to flatten out. The best stuff is sheet material and pricey. I strongly recommend looking at the laminates products available. Check your local laminate dealer.
Edited 6/28/2004 10:50 am ET by rick3ddd
Edited 6/28/2004 10:53 am ET by rick3ddd
Rick, Great tip in the cloth filter. I thought of the Formica but I have just a 14 foot, 2" wide strip to do. I was going to pick up a roll of copper flashing, seems to be the easiest to obtain. Any recommendation on adhesive? I was thinking of the 3M #90 spray contact adhesive. -Ed
I've used epoxy in the past so I don't know how well the contact cement will work Put the burden on them and ask the contact cement maker. I would glue pre glue it to a substrate and cut it to size on the table saw. Roll copper tends to be wavy and by clamping you can take some of the wave out. Are you trying to maintain the new copper penny look? The commercial laminate is flat and has a protective coating. There's finish issues you haven't mentioned.
Edited 6/28/2004 5:21 pm ET by rick3ddd
Not sure I have the exact picture of what you're proposing, and admittedly I have no experience with copper, but the first image that came to mind was a down-spiral bit.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Take the roll of copper to your local sheet metal shop and have them cut the strip for you. They will have a slitter that works like a can opener. You will want to clean the glue face to remove the oils from the copper. Some polyurethane glue should work great.
Joe Phillips
Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!
I make pool cues with various metals sandwiched between wood, and use a router to turn everything to size. The metal will get hot. Contact adhesive is not conducive to heat. try epoxy and plan on a fair bit of sanding to get the metal smooth...
I contacted 3M and they said that they don't recommend a contact cement for copper that they sell to consumers, so epoxy sounds like the way to go. Thanks to all for the great advice. -Ed
This place is great, the ideas around here are something else.
I cut thin aluminum sheet (thicker than flashing material) on the table saw a couple of times. Sandwiched between two sheets of 3/4" plywood. It worked great, with the other safety items already mentioned.
Enjoy, Roy
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