Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 30, 2003 04:07am | #1

   1/8" is plenty thick enough to attach with screws. I've seen lots of electronic enclosures with 1/8" and thinner panels screwed on. You just have to use small screws, enough screws, and have a light touch with the countersink to get the screw heads below the surface but still leave enough material for them to grip.

   But if you're committed to glue, here are two discussions of gluing UHMW.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=1552.1

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=9937.1

1. 
   T | Jan 30, 2003 04:54am | #2

   Thanks for the note, the links proved to be interesting. Sounds like what I had imagened, no silver bullet off the shelf from Lowes, which is about it for where to shop materials here in SW Virginia. Considering what that ultra high priced molecular weighty plasticky stuf cousts, a fella would probly have to have a Military contract to be able to afford to buy it anyway. May give the contact cement a try after roughing up the back of a piece and see what comes of it. A.T.

1. 
   Mach70 | Jan 30, 2003 06:41am | #3

   Is it that expensive to buy at a plastics supply? I'm sure it's pricey at a woodworking supply--not quite their usual material. A white plastic cutting board is pretty cheap & you can rip several runners from one.

1. 
   user-559069 | Feb 02, 2003 09:37pm | #14

   The UHMW plastic is very expensive at woodworking stores and such, but here in Indianapolis, there is a plastic retailer called Hyaline Plastics which has several bins in their front lobby where they sell plastic cut offs for close to nothing. I've bought UHMW there for a few years. They also sell just about any other plastic you can imagine from these bins as well for equally cheap prices, including that pricey Lexan that we all love for router table inserts.

   If you live anywhere near a big city, I would guess that you could go to the yellow pages and find a distributor similar to Hyaline in your area--trust me, it's well worth the trip! Hyaline always has a tremendous selection in these cut-off bins, all colors and sizes. They also sell all sorts of glues and cutters for working with all these different materials.

   Happy hunting, folks. E-mail me if you're close to Indy and I can give you directions to Hyaline plastics here.

                                    CATCan you even imagine not being free? We are so lucky, and I am so grateful. God Bless America.

1. 
   jgaiennie | Feb 02, 2003 09:48pm | #15

   So do you know if they carry a glue for HDPE or UHMW?  If so, what is it?

   And, seeing that you're from Indy, I'd like to ask you if you've been to Marc Adams School of Woodworking and if so what are your comments? - or anyone who's not from Indy as well.  I was checking out his web page the other day and thinking I might like to give it a whirl.  Must be good - great list of instructors and the vast majority of the courses are full.  He seems as if he's put together a great program in your town. 

   I'm not sure this thread has the proper title for this subject - I guess this is what is referred to as hijacking a thread.  Oh well - havn't we exhaused the gluing UHMW subject?

   jdg

2. 
   user-559069 | Feb 02, 2003 09:59pm | #16

   well, jdg, I always thought (perhaps incorrectly) that UHMW plastic was far too dense, slick, and chemical resistant to be glued, but I can call Hyaline tomorrow and find out for you. I discovered that they carry an incredible array of materials and glues for working with all types of plastics, so if the stuff can be glued, I'm sure they carry the glue--I'll find out for you and post it here this week. If there is a glue, I'll ask them what it is and how much it costs.

                                CATCan you even imagine not being free? We are so lucky, and I am so grateful. God Bless America.

2. 
   jgaiennie | Jan 30, 2003 03:54pm | #4

   AT,

   I've recently tried contact cement on UHMW.  Don't waste your time - lol.  But if you do find something that works, let us know.

   I have purchased small quantities of UHMW, HDPE, and PVC from a local plastics supplier within the past year.  PVC of course can be glued as is evidenced by PVC pipe installations.  HDPE can be fusion welded.  It it even possible to bond it to itself with a hot rod melting it together, and I have done this with some half as* success.  UHMW can neither be glued or fusion welded - I think.  The guys at the plastics house told me that I wouldn't be able to glue it, and I thought, "they just don't know how resourceful I am".  Turns out, they pretty much knew what they were talking about - imagine that.  I couldn't glue it.  Kevin Jenness says he's had success with 3M Spray 90.  I didn't try this product.

   jdg

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 30, 2003 04:35pm | #5

   A thin bead of construction adhesive might work to join dissimilar materials.We use methyline chloride to join acrylics to acrylics;that might work to join UHMW to itself.Spray glue is also remarkably strong.

2. 
   Upraiser | Jan 30, 2003 05:29pm | #6

   Glue for UHMW must be available.  I have a strip on my saw fence that came peel and stick and it sure is stuck, been on the fence for at least 10 yrs.

   Curt

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 31, 2003 02:14am | #7

   Use carpet tape.  Y'know, the double-sided fabric tape used to stick down carpets. 

1. 
   bobhallsr | Jan 31, 2003 08:46am | #8

   You might try Franklin International.  They are a major manufacturer of of a great variety of adhesives.  My experience in adhesive applications was that Franklin was very inovative.  Perhaps their urethane hot melt might adhere to the ultra high molecular weight polymers.

   http://www.franklinadhesives.com/

   BJ

   Gardening, cooking and woodworking in Southern Maryland

   Edited 1/31/2003 12:53:40 AM ET by Bee Jay

3. 
   WoodChuc1 | Jan 31, 2003 11:28am | #9

   I don't know if this will help, but Corian is similar to UHMV and they use some sort of epoxy to glue the pieces together.

   Bill B.

1. 
   Mach70 | Feb 01, 2003 06:38am | #10

   At work I have used little 2 part packets of urethane epoxy.  I've 'borrowed' a few and have used this amazing stuff to bond stainless steel to glass, among other things.  Urethane epoxy stays slightly flexible when cured whereas most epoxy I have experimented with cures very brittle.  I think I have some UHMW runner out in the shop--think I'll try bonding a couple pieces & report the results tomorrow.

   Edited 1/31/2003 10:42:57 PM ET by MACH70

1. 
   jgaiennie | Feb 01, 2003 07:01am | #11

   I'll be looking for those results and surprised if they report success.

   jdg

1. 
   Mach70 | Feb 01, 2003 08:27pm | #12

   Results are disappointing.  The 2 pcs were stuck together good but I was able to pop them apart with hand force only.  I had mixed up the glue in a polypropylene cup and the dried glue pried out pretty easily.  PP and PE is finding its way into auto interiors more and more each day.  Obviously there are adhesives that will bind these materials but it may be that the strength required to hold your door panels together is much lower than what a woodworker needs when building up a jig.

4. 
   fredsmart48 | Feb 02, 2003 12:09pm | #13

   Some time a go I did glue some white plastic ( I think it was ultra high molecular plastic ) togather with some of  PVC pipe glue.  It held very well. 

5. 
   JPGrout | Feb 03, 2003 07:18am | #17

   I found this link and a disccussion on how to adhere UHMW. I bet this is probably the only way other than mechanical attachment to accomplish your goal Joe

   http://www.crownplastics.com/UHMW.htm

1. 
   T | Feb 03, 2003 04:38pm | #18

   I am glad I thought to ask you folks that read this forum for help. I don't have a lot of time to sit in the office but will try to take a little so I might be able to help out someone sometime too. You folks are great! I've been earning my living making sawdust for 30 years, maybe half in the workshop, but I find that I still learn from Fine Woodworking and now there is this neat extenson to my brother(and sister) woodworkers. Anyway I tryed to glue the white stuf the other day after a sugjestion to use contact cement. I had actually thought of that once upon a time but just didn't have the confidense in it. Well guess what. The piece I glued was 3/8" thick and I roughed it up on some 100 grit and spread one coat each to the ultra high and a piece of 1X oak and in twenty minutes when it was dry it "stuck like glue. " I cut a half inch wide pice off along the edge and was able to lever it off fairly easily, but the rest.... about 5" by 3" is stuck really well. I don't know how it would stand up to a lot of prying, but won't come off with my fingers pulling at it. I am going to glue a piece to my saw unifence but will put a couple of screws in it for safety sake but I think this is the answer. Thanks again oh yea I used Con Bond 985 ok lets get back to work. A.T.

1. 
   Mach70 | Feb 04, 2003 08:33pm | #20

   The UHMW is for your Unifence?  Have you looked at:

   http://www.ttrackusa.com/

   I don't usually advocate throwing $$ at a problem but this fence is soooo cool that $70 or 80.00 doesn't seem bad at all.

2. 
   Elcoholic | Feb 03, 2003 07:30pm | #19

   If I understand what I found in your link, the only way to adhere this material is with special pressure sensitive adhesive tape.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

6. 
   gtieszen | Feb 05, 2003 02:27am | #21

   One more suggestion on this issue -- I am in the process of putting vinyl siding on my house and have been using a sealant that adhears tenaciously to the vinyl siding and anything else it happens to touch.  It comes in a caulking tube, and is NOT a silicone product.  It has an organic solvent (lacquer thinner like) smell, and when it drys (after several days) it leaves a very firm, ridgid, rubbery type seal.  In fact I'd almost be afraid that once attached, a piece of plastic might be "permanently" there.  Without running to the garage to check, I think the name is Solar 400 or something like that, but I'm sure you could get the same stuff by other names from a siding wholesaler, or installer. 

   Though sold as a "sealer" I'd bet it would work as a glue, and the best part is it's only about $4-$5 a tube.

   Hope this helps,

   Galen