I’m in the middle of a commission to restore an old oak table and one thing I have yet to do is fix a piece of rectangular caning that is in one of the horizontal ends supporting the top. The “window” that holds the caning is about 9 inches by 15 inches. The old caning was ripped and just fell apart as I removed the pieces.
I know where to get replacement caning but I’ve never done this work before. In my mind I think the process would involve submerging the cane in water to soften it (how long?) and then cutting it to shape (how much overlarge?) and finally putting it into the table. The pieces which hold the cane came out just fine so I don’t need to get replacements for them.
Anybody done this before who could give me some basic how-to information on this? Thanks.
John
Replies
I'll assume you're using pre-woven cane, which makes this easier. Cut the caning 2" wider in all four directions. Soak in water for about an hour.
If the groove in the oak is clean, when the caning has finished soaking, install one side and apply stripping to keep in place. You'll need a caning tool for this, made for the groove size, usually a 3/16" roller wheel, available at upholstery outfitters. Duckbill pliers help next, if you have some. Stretch the caning and apply stripping on opposite side, then repeat this for the other sides. Trim excess with utility knife(new blade).
It's a straight forward process- even if the caning might feel uneven, after it dries and tightens it'll look good.
The groove is pretty clean. And, yes, this is prewoven caning.
Is the caning tool a roller so that you get the piece which holds the cane in place really snug? I don't have duckbill pliers, but can probably rig something up. Sounds like this is the process:
1. Soak the cane about an hour
2. Put the cane and the strip which holds it into one side (I'd assume the longer side would be first)
3. Snug the strip with the caning tool or something suitable
4. Use duckbill pliers or something close to stretch the cane to the other side and put the cane and the strip which holds it into this side (opposite the prior side); use the caning tool to snug it up
5. Do the same for the other two sides, which are the shorter of the four sides
6. When the cane is done, use a utility knife with a new blade to cut the extra cane away
7. Done
Have I got it? I don't use any glue, right? And thanks for your quick reply to my original post. I've got to get this done pretty quickly and the local Rocker store didn't have any books about this in stock.
John
Hi John ,
I first learned to do cane work when I apprenticed , and have been doing it ever since . As we all know there are many ways of doing things , but I'd like to give you a version that is tried and true , I have literally recaned hundreds of pieces . I also would suggest cutting the piece an inch or so larger on each side , soak the material in water , all written materials say soak for up to an hour . Soak it for 3 - 4 hours , the narrower the groove the longer I soak it . Mainly to avoid breaking strands when pushing it into the groove. Soft wood wedges work super for seating the cane in the groove , a roller works good for a re screen job . I seat it all around , then I trim the cane with as mentioned a sharp utility razor knife , just below the surface maybe a 1/16th below , trimming against the sides . For best results use new spline . And yes absolutely use glue , as the cane dries it shrinks and gets real tight . When you have the cane pushed into the groove and trimmed put glue in the groove and use a strand of the cane to walk the glue about and up the sides of the groove so the spline gets good contact. There is a face or top and a back side to the cane , the smooth side is the face. I made a tool for tapping the spline in with a small round file so as not to crush the top of the spline. Let me know if you need any more instructions or help .
good luck dusty
Wedges as mentioned will also help hold the caning in place. I've done it without glue usually, but it can't hurt to glue, and probably helps.
The tool I mention is a roller, like a professional pizza cutter but with a concave groove to direct the spline into the female groove.
And I always do long side first to establish tightness then the short side.
Thanks again.
John
Thanks. With input from you and Jackplane I'm ready to go.
John
One last question. Do I remove the strands of cane that are parallel to the channel that the spline goes in? Or, do I leavce all the strands in place and just trim the portion on the outside of the channel?
John
Hi John ,
Actually I just got done caning a chair seat today , and to answer your question . Every now and then depending on the shape there will be a strand or two running parallel to the groove that may need to be trimmed . But in general try and not trim off any more than you have to.It won't hurt if you do trim a strand that runs high up the side of the groove . I use regular Titebond glue and I make sure it coats the sides of the grooves all along the cane . The spline is wedge shaped so the bottom sides of the spline may not actually make contact with the cane or groove.That in my opinion is why it is important to walk the glue all the way up the sides , then tap the spline in place .I use a wet rag to wipe off any excess glue from the wood and the cane . If you work the cane in fairly tight when wet , within a few hours at room temperature it will be quite taught .
good luck dusty
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