Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Sep 19, 2008 05:26am | #1

   Hi Aaron,

   Krenov used several different methods. One is dowling. I built one cabinet on stand using 21 dowels to join both the top to the rails, as well as the same number for the bottom.

   In later pieces, Krenov used a home-made metal plate, sort of like a figure-8 fastner in principle. Basically the plate (about 1/8" thick) would be mortised in flat in both the rails and the top, flat so that one-half was on the rail, the other let into the top. Screws were then used to attach the top to the side rails.

   The screw holes in the plate are slightly elongated to allow the top to expand and contract on the half that screws to the rails/case sides. This method I have used as well.

   If I made another cabinet on stand I would only do the dowels as long as the top wasn't over 12" to 14" in width. Over that and the plates are a better fastnening system. As well, one needs to consider the wood used. I used a lot of Bubinga for these and the amount of expansion is extremely minimal. So to with Dossie.

   Take care, Mike

2. 
   bsutton | Sep 19, 2008 07:44pm | #2

   Some of his books go into a fair amount of detail on construction, i.e, dowelling using a shop made jig.  I can't recall about the fixed dividers.  They were probably dadoed and that would certainly be a good way. 

   The maple cabinet top and bottom were probably dowelled and likely solid wood.  I think he tended to leave veneering to the show pieces such door panels.

   The back would be let into a rabbet in the back and secured with small screws.

    

3. 
   ted | Sep 21, 2008 01:26am | #3

   Yes the top and bottom are doweled to the sides. How many dowels? Usually evenly spaced and no more than 1 1/2" apart or so.
   The back is usually frame and panel, and rabbeted into the top, bottom and sides and then glued into place.
   The later part of Krenov's work involved a lot of veneer work. But whether solid or veneer the doweling process is the same.

   Dividers are usually splined into place. Although In my own work I've often used dadoes in combination with a spline system. I can't think of any sources that would document his work or let you in on the specifics other than graduates of College of the Redwoods or the series of books. If you have the time or $$ a summer workshop at CR Fine Woodworking Program might be worth considering if you want the inside scoop on that type of cabinetmaking and woodworking.

4. 
   roc | Sep 21, 2008 09:30pm | #4

   Dear aaronpetersen,

   Let me say I have not actually built one of his pieces, I have not taken his classes. However living here in the wild wild west I have thumbed his books as one of the old timers might the Bible or Shakespeare.

   How did he do it? I say ask him :

   http://jameskrenov.com/contact_jk.htm

   Last interview I saw with him not too long ago he was hail and hardy except for his eyes.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignArticle.aspx?id=30181

   Hurumph harummm cough. If I may be so bold . . .
   Dowels equally spaced? ?!? see JK book The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking p 139 It is one of his signatures that dowels are more plentiful in the stress areas; hinges and corners.

   and . . .and . . . search this FWW for past magazine articles including:

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/fwnpdf/011007046.pdf

   See also The Impractical Cabinetmaker p 41 and 44

   >later part of Krenov's work involved allot of veneer work.

   I am sure he will expound (or correct me if I was wrong) on this but in his next to last book (the last one about HIS work specifically) The Impractical Cabinetmaker (1979 admittedly) reprinted 1993 on page 38 he says "Several years ago I gave away my three veneer presses or frames. Since then I have done little work involving veneer. It is not one of my favorite techniques, though a few of my favorite pieces are done this way."

   >Frame and panel back: see The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking p 172 to 179. Specifically on p 178 he says " It is usual to glue the back piece into the cabinet . . . on some occasions, usually in a showcase, I have made a wider rabbet than needed for glueing and then fastened the back neatly with small screws." . . . then he says in some cases he just uses screws in a glassed-in cabinet if he may need to remove it in the future.

   Seems fairly clear how and why. He would want you to think hard about what you are doing, then worry about it some more, leave it, come back to it, worry some more and then do it. He said " I am the worrying kind; maybe that's why I have not had any bad disappointments with my frame and panels."

   The only big choice I see here is if you have a hanging cabinet then go with dovetails to join top and bottom and if on a stand use the dowels but it is also determined by the look. If the top and or bottom over hang the sides then the dovetails don't work.

   But I have said too much.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/21/2008 9:54 pm by roc

1. 
   aaronpetersen | Sep 22, 2008 01:54am | #5

   Thanks for the information. I think I'm getting the picture. I suppose I was a bit surprised to learn that someone as skilled as Krenov would use doweling as one of his most common techniques. Now, however, I'm beginning to see the beauty in it. The use of doweling simplifies the construction (simple being a defining element of his work) and frees you from the constraints of other joints such as dovetails; leaving you to follow the direction of the wood.

   One more question before I go... when using veneered panels instead of solid wood, how would you suggest you hide the veneer edges (if the design doesn't call for a frame and panel design). I have a hard time believing that a perfectionist such as Krenov would be content to lay on an edge band and veneer over it. To do so would be to leave an exposed veneer edge. Further, his veneers were certainly thicker (up to 1/8th or so) being resawn on his bandsaw, so they would be even more noticeable. Maybe I should take your advice and see if Mr. Krenov, himself, would let me in on his secret...

   Thanks,

   Aaron

1. 
   roc | Sep 22, 2008 04:28am | #6

   >simple
   like a bird in flight is simple or a lightning bolt. Uncluttered but exceedingly effective.An old engineering maxim I heard once: the simplest solution is the hardest to arrive at.>hide the veneer edgesYou must have missed it on the first read through of his books. It is there. Now you have yet another reason to read them (again)(?). I can think of few things more enjoyable.

   Edited 9/21/2008 9:40 pm by roc

2. 
   ted | Sep 23, 2008 04:28am | #7

   Nothing to be ashamed of exposing the edge of the veneer. The technique and the piece speak of how it was assembled and what it's about. With the appropriate detailing the exposed edge of the veneer becomes part of the whole. As far as Krenov giving up veneer that quote was back from 1979. And somewhere along the line he changed his mind. He's done plenty of veneer pieces since then.

   Edited 9/22/2008 9:29 pm ET by ted

1. 
   roc | Sep 23, 2008 06:14am | #8

   Ted,Thanks ! I stand corrected.roc