Replies

1. 
   woodwormal | Jul 06, 2002 06:07pm | #1

   steve;you have a good jointer ,don't be down hearted; you just don't have  a long enough out feed platform to keep your wood from moving wrong when you take it through the jointer ;

   solution;get some 3/4" M D F board and build you a infeed and out feed table or just cut a rectangle in the middle of what is comfortable for you to work over and make sure it is flat and parrell to the top of jointer. wax it heavy with good paste wax 2-3 times and buff it out , you will see a great difference in you boards  

2. 
   stancalow | Jul 06, 2002 09:21pm | #2

   Hey Steve

   I have the same jointer.  It's a good tool.  Like WOODWOMAL said, it needs more outfeed and infeed table if you are doing a longer piece.  I made mine out of melamine . 

   Stan

1. 
   sjmerrette | Jul 06, 2002 09:44pm | #4

   I have finally tweaked it to be a good joint but not without alot of heartache. Some of you mentioned building infeed and outfeed tables for it. I can see a fixed outfeed table as that is stationary but how would you suggest the infeed so that it travels with the jointer's infeed table? I would obviously prefer something that doesn't take alot of figdeting with to get it dead nuts with the machine's infeed whenever I make adjustments to the cut. Thanks for the previous replies please keep them coming.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 06, 2002 09:27pm | #3

   Steve,

   If you have a 1/64" gap between panels, some would say you have made a perfect glue joint and so would I. Even though I'm set up to joint "tight", this type joint is called a "sprung" joint and many woodworkers love it.

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   Edited 7/6/2002 2:29:08 PM ET by J Fusco

   
   

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   Edited 7/6/2002 2:29:30 PM ET by J Fusco

1. 
   sjmerrette | Jul 06, 2002 09:47pm | #6

   Joe. sprung as I take it means you can clamp it tight.  this is on the edge of 17" long 1x8 poplar. by the time I could apply enough pressure to draw that joint tight I would crush the outer edges of the boards. (I know I already tried) :(Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 06, 2002 09:54pm | #7

   Steve about time where you been..Jointing poplar I guess :). Hows the wife and your baby doing. I bet he's up and running all over the place by now.

   I had the same jointer. I have planed boards 4" wide and about 6' long with it. I didnt need a infeed table and used a roller stand for the outfeed. I also got that effect from the TS not hoding the wood tight to the fence I suspect. Do you use a grip tight or feather board when you rip the wood on the TS ? Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"

   Edited 7/6/2002 2:55:46 PM ET by Ron Teti

2. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 06, 2002 11:26pm | #8

   Steve,

   Let me see if I understand the situation correctly. You have, lets say 2 boards 17" long by 7-1/2" wide that have been jointed along the "long" edge. When placed together, there is a 1/64" gap at the center of the panels and the ends touch. Is that correct?If that is correct, it shouldn't take more then a turn or twist with a pipe clamp to close the joint. If the joint doesn't close it may be that the edges are not square to each other. . .

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   Edited 7/6/2002 4:52:06 PM ET by J Fusco

1. 
   sjmerrette | Jul 07, 2002 12:28am | #9

   You got it Joe. Maybe I should be using pipe clamps instead of the ones with a bar. they seem to spring too much and pop things out of the clamp as you tighten.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 07, 2002 02:33am | #12

   Steve,

   Even though those pony clamps are small they should be able to close the joint. . . here's something I have on my site that might help.

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2. 
   sjmerrette | Jul 07, 2002 05:39am | #13

   Joe nice info. I've glued up lots of panels before, my gripe was getting that galdarned jointer setup. I was trying to use some whimpy quickgrip clamps and couldn't get enough pressure. I said phooey (well actually I said something else but the word police would flag me on it here) anyway I went back to my trusty 3/4" pipe clamps and those panels are looking mighty sweet now. but hey thanks for you input and interest. If you care I'll send you some digital photos of the finished project when I'm done.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

3. 
   Sancho | Jul 07, 2002 05:47am | #14

   Joe I do a very simular method except once I tighten the k-bodys I wait a few minutes oh about 5 or so  then wipe the glue with a wet rag then I loosen the K bodys turn the boards over and wipe the glue on the other side then retighten. I have a lot less sanding to do then.  Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"

4. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 07, 2002 03:57pm | #16

   Ron,

   I've been flip-floppin' for years on the best way (for me anyway) to remove glue from "anything" I glue together. I use a wet rag to clean up a bit, but I've found that in porous woods you have a tendency to push the glue into the pores. This usually show up when staining or finishing and then it's a pain to remove.I have a bit of a reservation about releasing the clamp pressure just after 5 mins. and then re-clamping after you clean up the board. I do on the other hand like to remove the panels after about 2 hours or so. The glue is set, yet the beads of semi dried glue scrape off easily with a chisel or scraper. After 24 hours it's much harder to scrape off the glue. . . As far as sanding, I sand from 80 grit to 220 so sanding isn't a problem for me ;-)

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   Edited 7/7/2002 8:59:22 AM ET by J Fusco

5. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 07, 2002 03:46pm | #15

   Steve,

   Sure would like to see the pictures when you're done.I had once bought 4 36" QuikGrip clamps, they looked like a good idea. After the first attempt to actually clamp something with them I realized their short comings. I sold them to a friend who thought they where the greatest thing. . . .If you can bring yourself to plunk down about $35.00 a clamp for some "K" bodys you'll never go back to using anything else.

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6. 
   TomFerreira | Jul 08, 2002 05:55am | #17

   Just a note on the K-Bodys. I found the 40" on sale at Sears for $29, went to HD and they gave me another 10% off. Bought 6 40" for $26 ea. The lesson hear is keep your eye out for the sales.

   TDF

4. 
   observer | Jul 06, 2002 09:47pm | #5

   Do you have an adjustment on that machine for height of the out feed table relative to the cutterhead. If they aren't in the exact same plane, your cut will be slightly convex or concave. When you set the adjustment, check it against all the cutter knives, not just one, to ensure you are not setting to a low or high blade. A few thousandths of an inch makes a difference. Same problem will occur unless the tables are exactly parallel.

   That being said, Joe is right. Many work to get just that kind of fit

1. 
   sjmerrette | Jul 07, 2002 12:34am | #10

   Dick, to my knowledge there is no adjustment of the outfeed table. it is fixed. for those of you familiar with this machine, the knives have height adjustments but in order to do it you set the knife height release the blade holder mechanism turn the blade holder a little to get to the set screws to tighten the blades and pray that things don't move as you tighten it up, which they inevitably do.

   I have noticed that at the outboard side of the infeed table it is a hair lower than the inboard side. in other words the dang tables aren't exactly true. I don't know of any way to fix that. I don't know if the raise lower mechanism is bent or the table itself is out of whack. anyway like I mentioned earlier I finally got the dumb thing set and don't plan on messinn with it for awhile.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

1. 
   DelDollens | Jul 07, 2002 02:08am | #11

   I believe my sister has the exact same jointer as you do...

   As I was setting it up for her, I noticed that the infeed table was not true while making a very shallow cut (1/64").  However, when making a little bit deeper cut, say 1/32 to 1/16, the table were more true...not absolutely perfect...but true enough.  I was measuring all of this with a machinist straight edge, and found that the infeed (outboard end) was almost .030 low on the shallow cut, yet was within .002-.003 on the deeper cuts.

   Hope this helps.

   -Del