Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 19, 2003 07:04am | #1

   I can't help you much but I'm thinking that it would have to be a pretty heavy and sturdy assembly to not flex some.

   I have wondered if anybody makes one where one support end could be taken off for that occasional wide board that needs to be done?? 

   Or, does anyone make one where the bed is spring loaded?  That could compensate for flexing in the arm, tending to keep even presssure across the width of the board.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

2. 
   hammer1 | Nov 19, 2003 10:10am | #2

   I owned a supermax, the biggest Performax single drum made six or seven years ago. I wish I could say something nice but I can't. It was expensive. You could barely touch the surface of your work piece and needed several passes on an ordinary 1x6 to get the whole surface. By the third pass at least one place was burning. I used to mark the cover so I could avoid the burn spot. By the end of the week there were so many pencil marks I couldn't tell where there was a good spot. This was not with the same paper, that would be done for in no time. The spinning drum when not burning would cut striations in your lumber. Little straight lines with each grit of sand. At that time there was a problem with the paper stretching so performax came up with this little spring clip to take up the slack. I had to pay extra to get one. Cutting the paper and wrapping it on the hard cylinder was a pain especially when you had to replace it every few boards. I tried every grit from 60 on. Forget about anything finer than 80. They may have changed since then but they had a long way to go. I have seen some similar machines that use a felt backed paper. This might be the answer to eliminate the hard cylinder but it may just cause the paper to wrinkle easier too. I spent so much time screwing around with this machine I shoved it in the corner and broke out the belt sander. It is now the most expensive mooring in the bay. If you want to try one get the Delta at least you won't be out $4000.

3. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Nov 19, 2003 05:52pm | #3

   I have the Delta 18-36.  No real problem with deflection.  But, the belt tracking system is bad.  You need to keep your eye on it all the time and continuously make minor adjustments.  If you don't, it will track too far over and chew up the belt.  You also NEED a good dust collector.  Don't even turn it on without one.  Also, the Delta sandpaper isn't great.  I find it leaves scratches much deeper than you'd expect for that grit.  Buy a good industrial sanding roll and use that.  Also a third the price.  All in all, I like the Delta better than Performax.  It is a lot heavier, mostly steel.  Nowhere near the capability of a real industrial thickness sander, but not a bad value for a home shop.   The belt-drive motor is substantial, but still easy enough to stall it.

4. 
   GHR | Nov 19, 2003 06:21pm | #4

   I also have the Delta.

   As long as you can live with the power limitations it works well. (Ok, the feed belt does need constant adjustment once you stretch it out of shape, but you can solve that problem by keeping the tension light.)

   I don't do heavy work on mine. Most of the work I do is on 1/8" thick stock and usually under 8" wide and 9' long. I like to remove .015" at a time. For that all is good.

   I did have some problems this month. I cut some burl into wood blocks and tried to sand them to thickness. The burl was just too wet. It clogged up the paper almost immediately. I will hand sand when I have time.

5. 
   rmcjh | Nov 19, 2003 09:59pm | #5

   Bruce:

   I have a Performax and it does everything it's intended to do - sand.  To many folks think of using these machines as a planer rather than a sander.  Not that you cannot thickness plane but it just takes to long since you're only removing about 1/64 to about a 1/32 with each pass.  There are sanders such as the one you see on the New Yankee show that are constructed to take heavier passes but they also cost quite a bit more. 

   Additionally, I do not have a problem with deflection of the arm.  You cannot put that kind of pressure on the arm to deflect it and still expect the drum to rotate.  When I first obtained my sander I tried sanding a 12" wide board, had to much pressure on the drum and tripped the motor overload.

   Some people state they have trouble burning the wood when they use the finer grit paper.  I've not had this problem since I take a lighter pass when I use paper over 100.  Also, don't sand pine if there are any knots showing, pine will quickly gum up the sandpaper.   It also goes without saying that you need a dust collector or shop vac connected to these machines as they put out quite a cloud.  

   Hope this was of some help, good luck in your search.

   Roger

6. 
   Julmer | Nov 19, 2003 11:23pm | #6

   Bruce: I bought a used Performax 16-32 several years ago. Once I tuned it up it has run great and I am very happy with it. (I have no drum deflection problems) I am a hobbyist who builds about 4 - 6 pieces of furniture a year. (most of it with hard white oak).  I won't go into specifics (good/bad) unless you have other questions. Try a search on  "Performax" or "drum sander", there have been several long discussions on them, you should read those.

1. 
   Jimma | Nov 20, 2003 02:29am | #7

   Herg is right. Don't expect to substitute the 16-32 for a planer or a jointer. If you use course abrasive, it will leave deep markings in the surface; if you use fine grits, it will burn if you try to take off a lot. I've used mine mainly to remove planer marks and true up a big run of stock to the same dimension, but a random orbital or other finishing technique will still be needed after the 16-32. Guess it depends on what you expect one to do...

7. 
   Norse | Nov 20, 2003 02:36am | #8

   I also have the Delta 18-36 and concur with the other posts. These machines are VERY slow but for my budget, its been better than nothing. The problem with heavy pieces is that the bottom belt support system is very short and to use a roller stand, it has to be adjusted EVERY time you crank the depth screw. Even being very careful, trying to eye a heavy piece level with the bottom belt, I've gouged a couple of heavy boards.

   I've found a couple bigger shops in my area who have the $15,000 belt machines and will sand for me by the hour.