I am trying to work out a support system for 12″ deep cantilevered shelves. I plan on making the shelves thick with two layers of 3/4 ply and can leave some space in the middle if necessary. Somebody suggested using L brackets with one end going perpendicular to the studs with the other set in the shelf. I also searched some old messages and read one about using steel rod but that was set in mortar. All I have are the 2×4’s in the wall.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Justin
Replies
What exactly do you mean by cantilevered? It sounds like you want shelves without visible supports? If so, I think a torsion box would be your best bet as it would be extrememly stiff, strong, and lighter than solid wood. You could use a french cleat sort of arrangement to hang them on the wall.
Search "floating shelves" in google and you'll find lots of ideas like:
http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Simple-Floating-Shelves
This particular one strikes me as problematic if for not other reason than gluing the hollow core door (a torsion box of sorts) to the cleat makes removal difficult. Nevertheless, things like this may give you some ideas.
Edited 12/4/2007 10:39 am ET by Samson
Do you have the wherewithal (and permission) to cut into the wall? The very best way to do this that I've found is to use extra heavy-duty L-brackets, at least 3/16" thick. There are two problems that you have to deal with: One is that they're just plain ugly. The other is that if they're sitting on top of the drywall, and you put a really heavy load on the shelf, you'll actually crush the drywall that's under them. So, the solution to both of these problems is to remove some of the drywall, mortise the vertical legs of the brackets directly into the studs, then replace the drywall. That way, you have some flat horizontal bars coming out of the wall that are never going to budge.
-Steve
Thanks...The hollow core door system would work great except that this is going to be made out of walnut. Also, they need to be 12" deep and therefor pretty rugged. The torsion box setup sounds great though. If I combine that with hiding L brackets in the wall I should be all set. I could have the wall prepped and the L brackets attached to the shelves before I install. Thanks a bunch.
I have done this a few times now in kitchens where there was a lot of weight involved. You are on track by using laminated 3/4" ply. I have tried a comercially availible system availible from Lewis and Company. It worked OK, very easy to install, but there was a lot of deflection when the weight was high (40 plus pounds). The last few times I drilled the studs for 5/8" cold rolled steel rods. There is a difference between using cold rolled and hot rolled! The rods were epoxied into the studs and the shelfs were drilled to match. If the rods are not very perpindicular to the wall instalation is a bitch. Expect to over size the problematic holes on site (You have to find 21/32" and 11/16" bits). The shelves were not epoxied and they will not come off by accident. The big problem...... the studs never line up right. 16" centers seems OK of glasses and resonable amounts of plates or bowls, but I have never had the 16" spacing work out on the layout. Sometimes there is not stud for the first 14" of the shelf of there is only one stud over a 24" span. So after the first time of using the comercially availible hardware I pull off the sheet rock and add studs as needed. These jobs have always been major remodels so there was not a lot of added expense. For a simple cabinet install I would sujest that you use a combination of steel rods where possible and the comercially availible hardware to make up the difference.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
I have two of these in my Master BR holding books. The screws through the top strip into the shelf (as opposed to those into the studs) are actually slightly offset from one the ones coming up through the bottom.
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Edited 12/4/2007 2:38 pm by GettinTher
Edited 12/4/2007 2:40 pm by GettinTher
Woodworker's Journal did an article on this a few months ago. I don't remember the exact issue, I'm at work and can't check right now, but it was within the last year. Hope this helps.
Ikea makes a cantilever shelf which is deeper then 12".
They use a flat metal piece which has 3/4" pipes welded perpendicular to the flat plate. The plate is screwed to the wall and the pipes stick out.
The shelf is a torsion box with a wood frame around the perimeter and holes at the back for the pipes. The shelf slips over the pipes and goes flush to the wall.
It works. Hung one over the head of the bed and it never fell down.
ASK
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