I’m building a wall unit to which I would like to have an 8′ long by 12″ deep shelf with no visible means of attachement. It will also need to hold some books. The back wall will be two layers of 3/4″ plywood with some pine sandwiched between for a total of 3″ thickness. I did this once before on a stud wall and used 1/2″ steel rebar hammered into a drill hole that went through the shelf into the wall studs. The shelf was then covered with a solid wood face. I was able to do chinups on the ends of those shelves. The problem was that getting the rebar through was tough enough on a stable wall without damaging the shelf. I want to put some lights in these shelves. Is there an easier way to do this?
Thanks,
Alan
Replies
How about this. Get some 1/4" thick angle iron that is 7 feet long and about 9 inches on one side and 4 inches on the other. Screw the angle iron into the middle section of the backer so that the 9 inch side protrudes through the plywood and makes a metal shelf. Make your shelf with a 1/4" pocket so that it slides over the metal and is suspended by the metal. This probably means a shelf made up of two pieces with an edge banding.
It won't go anywhere and it'll be much stronger than the rebar idea you used before.
Blind dowel it to the studs with rebar or all-thread in oversized drilled holes filled with Bondo.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
You had to hammer the rebar because the outside is very rough. (It is made that way so that concrete grips it.) Instead, use steel with a smooth surface -- for instance, steel water pipe. It is almost as stiff as solid steel of the same diameter.
On the lights, what is your question?
Thanks for the help. The point about the lights was simply that I didn't want to have to do anything violent when installing the shelf. I do need to have access for wiring to run through the back of the shelf and I'll probably go with smooth pipe dowel. Thanks again.
Alan
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