Help. I’ve reached a point in my second project, yes second, where I would like to add a finial but I am not quite sure how to chuck the blank in the lathe to allow me to turn the end to, well, a point. I obviously have the standard spur drives, but also small three jaw chuck; but the piece seems to long to capture properly in said chuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I'm not much of a turner, and I'm sure you'll get some experts in here to respond, but what I've done in the past would be to turn the finial between the two ends, turning the point down to as close as possible, and then taking it off the lathe, cutting it free of the waste, and finishing by hand. A little long-winded, but I hope I've helped.
If the tenon on the finial is less than 1/2", you could use a drill chuck such as this one: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?search=action&keywords=dowel-chuck.
for larger tenons, you could use something like this one: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=130-1150 which might be available for your chuck.
I have turned these down between centers and carved the last tiny bit of the point. That is how finials on classic pieces were done. Taunton’s newer book on period furniture has a chapter on turning and carving them.
Make up a wood faceplate with a screw sticking out an inch or so from the exact center and screw the drilled blank or partially turned finial onto the screw for final shaping. Screw driving centers are also available commercially.
John W.
dreep,
Like creekwood said, I'd turn the finial out of stock that's a little longer than the final dimension I want. If the tailstock's cup center is small enough in diameter, you can turn the stem right out to the end. Otherwise, leave 1/8-3/16" of waste to avoid getting the turning tool against the metal center. You might need more waste on the drive spur end, to avoid having the point of the drive center leave a divot in the end of your finial. Turn the tip down as small, as near the end as you are comfortable doing, sand as much as you can, then take it out of the lathe, and finish the ends by hand.
Good luck,
Ray
Thanks everyone.
Dreep,
I am not much of a turner but was asked to reproduce some finials for a bed that was missing them.
I chose to turn the finial out of a longer block, leaving the tenon long and finihing of the very top tip with a sander after cutting it loose from the block with a handsaw.
Here's some pics if it helps you . . .
Mount the piece between centers with extra length for waste at the headstock. When you are almost done with the point, use a parting tool ( with one hand) to separate the finial from the waste. Make sure the separation is at the headstock, the finial will drop into your free hand. If you do it backwards the finial will spin off at the lathe speed and probably be damaged.Practice with a scrap first to get the feel of it, you will be surprised at how easily the finial drops into your free hand without spinning around.
mike
Hi Mikek4244
Have turned many a finial but never tried your method, possibly because from habit I have always driven from the base end, but next time I do a small one will give it a try.
One positive for leaving small tenons and then finishing by hand - I do so on a linishing belt - is that it can be more practical not to leave a fine point on the end. It can look perfect when done but can so easily be damaged especially when in reach of a human being. Having a rounded point with a 2/3 mm radius does not detract that much and if it is perched on the apex of a building it will never be noticed. Another way out is to turn down towards the point, stop at about 10mm dia. and finish with a ball of a size in relation to the rest of the design, but that is not answering the original question. Have fun
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled