If the blade has to be jointed, then the circumferential faces need to be ground to restore the clearance. Otherwise, only the rake faces. I shouldn’t think the sides would ever need to be ground.
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Replies
Care to explain? You mean the sides aren't sharpened so the thickness is maintained, right?
Same destination, different paths. I would say maintaining the blade thickness is not the goal, it's just a side effect of not grinding the sides of the teeth. IMO, The reason for not grinding the sides is that it's not necessary. I don't think the leading edge of the side needs to be sharp, but if it does, it is sharpened when the rake face is ground.
Typically the sharpeners I am familiar with will face grind and lightly top grind if needed. The Freud LU85 series is the exception to this based on the unique side grind. These should be top ground only and lightly face ground every fourth sharpening.
Freud America, Inc.
Thanks Charles. For those who aren't familiar with it, the LU85 is Freud's "Ultimate Cut-off Blade" and the special side-grind enables the blade teeth to polish the wood as it is cut. I own this blade and can verify that it does produce "glass smooth finishes" as stated in the catalog.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I have both the 10" and 12" versions of the LU85 and love both of them! Someday I hope to treat the 10-incher right and move it from my old Craftsman contractors saw to a decent cabinet saw. Until then, it just quietly goes about it's work of giving me incredibly smooth cuts with little or no chip-out.Regards,Ron
Yep, the LU85 is a phenomenal blade. I couldn't believe it the first time I used it! Do you use yours on veneered plywoods (thin) as well as crosscutting? It's handy that way. The other blade that works great in delicate plywood is the F80 (810 and 812). It has a 2* hook and HiATB tooth design (80-tooth in 10"). Great for melanmine and laminates too. I passed it up for the LU85, but one of these days.......forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Charles, thank you for taking the time to respond on this site. Your knowledge is much appreciated. My 85MO10 is an awesome blade. I'm afraid to take it to my sharpener.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Charles
These should be top ground only and lightly face ground every fourth sharpening.
How many sharpenings can you get out of that blade?
Just curious, I realize that the no. varies just looking for an average.
Thanks
Doug
If the blade is mistreated or not sharpened when necessary you might only get one or two sharpenings. If treated properly and maintained correctly you could get 20 or more.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Charles
Am I right in believing that the teeth on an Alternate top bevel TCT blade are often slightly tappered or relieved from the leading edge to the back (at the weld)? It seems that whilst I keep my scoring blades & main blades in sets I need to change (ie reduce in thickness) the scorer's shims after every 3-4 regrinds of the main blade.
If that is the case grinding on the sides of the teeth would need to re-accommodate that?
Don
Don,Carbide tips on all sawblades have relief angles in three directions. The top grind will typically have a 15° relief angle from the face relative to a line tangent to the circumference. The side is relieved from face to back of the tip and from top to bottom. When a tip is face ground it will definitely reduce the kerf and usually this will reduce the kerf more than top grinding because the angle is greater.Scoring saws have means of adjustment so they can match the kerf width of the main blade after sharpening. Some adjust by shims, some by changing height and others by means of a dial hub.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Charles
Thanks, it is what I suspected. My saw (F45) uses the shim method which is why I keep them in sets - once you've got it right for one blade it only takes a minor adjustment to keep them in line. I have found that three sets is the optimum but due to wear I've now got 5.
One more question relating to blades if I may-
The flanges on the saw arbour have dowel holes (but are not fitted with dowels), as do the blades I use. In all my years I have never seen a blade slip when mounted correctly. When are dowels used on a table saw?
Don
Some table or sliding saw use the dowel to "drive" the blade. Most blades are driven by the washers clamping the blade. This can lead to over tightness of the arbor nut if the blade slips a little 'cause the direction of slip tightens the nut. (Can be a real pig to undo)
Yes I suspect that is the case, it was under what circumstances dowels would be an advantage over a flange on a saw designed to cut sheet goods that had me wondering, & seeing as Charles had stuck his head up I thought I'd ask.
Don
My old Rockwell 14" table saws have a removable arbor. The two dowel holes accept a pin wrench to hold the flange while you loosen the arbor. There is an extra long arbor for dadoes and molding cutters. This may be what you are seeing but I'm not familiar with an F45. You can tell if the arbor is interchangeable by the flats on the end and the dowel holes in the flange.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer
Good point but the arbour on this saw is not designed to be removed unless the bearings are in need of replacement, & as it has a sliding table on the left & a cast top on the right the only thing that will fit on the arbour is a conventional blade. I think the new Felder is the only European slider with dado capability.
Don
< I think the new Felder is the only European slider with dado capability.>Not any more! I have a MiniMax CU300 that has dado capability up to 3/4". So I don't know what I'll do with the remaining two 1/8" chippers in my Forest set.Tom
I think the new Felder is the only European slider with dado capability.
My MiniMax CU410 also has the dado capability. It may be an insult to the saw, but I have even used my ancient Sears wobble dado, and it works great.
Some of the European saws, such as the Felder, include a blade brake. Just as starting the saw tightens the arbor nut, braking when stopping the saw would loosen it, so pins are necessary on those blades. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Don,USANigel has it right. The dowels/pins are meant to drive the blade in extreme circumstances such as when using a power feed to speed rip. They allow for positive drive on the blade without excessive arbor nut tension. The larger the blade the more useful/necessary they are.Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Does Freud offer a sharpening service for their blades?.
I would like to urge Fre (sine) Ud (inesi) to offer such service, the geometry of some of your blades is too complex for some local blade sharpener.
Thank you
John Cabot
John,We don't offer a sharpening service at this time but I will pass your suggestion along in hopes that we will someday. Sorry to hear that you are having problems getting blades sharpened. Any particular one come to mind?Thanks,Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
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