Replies

1. 
   gulfstar | Aug 06, 2022 04:20pm | #1

   Bandsaws and drills are pretty much the last cutting tools for powered equipment that are still mostly non carbide. My experience with carbide band saw blades confirm what you are expecting from them and they can be resharpenned.

2. 
   [email protected] | Aug 06, 2022 05:50pm | #2

   When I first got my 2.5 HP Laguna 14BX and the Resaw King carbide blade I was amazed with the perfect and effortless resaw results especially in reclaimed hard heart pine. After what seemed like an appropriate time I sent it out for sharpening back to Laguna for $45 plus shipping and I installed a backup carbide blade. I didn't get the bottom guides quite tight enough and the ceramic rubbed one side of the carbide. It never cut true again. I installed the factory resharpened blade and it did not cut true.

   I then purchased 3 Wood Slicer 3/4 inch blades from Highland Hardware for $40 each plus shipping. They have have a narrow kerf and track beautifully in 12 inch resaw in walnut and cherry.

   I am not sure if the disappointing resharpening experience is a one off but the reality is that a new Wood Slicer blade is still less expensive than resharpening the carbide blade and they seem to last a long time.

   I just ordered 3 more Wood Slicer blades and I have a 3rd carbide blade sitting new in the box.

1. 
   stevieray | Aug 07, 2022 06:40am | #5

   I had an identical experience. Same saw, same Resaw King. It worked great but of course couldn't handle curves, so definitely a special purpose.
   I then bought a Woodslicer, and it did well on resaving but also can't cut curves. So now I'm back to a standard 1/2-inch blade, which can handle minor resawing and softer curves.

3. 
   john_c2 | Aug 06, 2022 07:04pm | #3

   You say you are going through blades quickly -- what brand and type, tooth count, etc are they?

4. 
   user-3646902 | Aug 07, 2022 06:09am | #4

   Although very infrequent, if you experience a bandsaw blade failure (break at weld joint or elsewhere) it can be quite expensive to replace a carbide blade. After having such a failure with a $100 plus carbide blade I converted to a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade for my 14" Delta bandsaw. I have been completely satisfied with the performance of these blades - ease of cut in hardwoods, narrow kerf, straight blade tracking and good service life before becoming dull and requiring replacement. I intend to stick with non-carbide blades.

1. 
   gulfstar | Aug 07, 2022 03:41pm | #8

   Have you used carbide blades ?

5. 
   _mj_ | Aug 07, 2022 11:10am | #6

   +1 for the 1/2" Woodslicer. I have resawn to 13" on my Laguna 14 SUV with great results. This is not the first or even second time the Q on carbide bandsaw blades has come up and it is the same each time; moderate to good results with a new blade and random results after sharpening. The economy of being able to resharpen seems mythical.

6. 
   jharveyb | Aug 07, 2022 03:32pm | #7

   I have a 36" bandsaw that uses 18'7" long blades. I always had them made up for me from a professional saw shop in Nashville that serviced industrial saws of all types. I never found the blades to be super even when new, but didn't really know what else to expect. When they got dull, my partner and I hung them on a pegboard next to the saw (for 35 years...) I had read an article in an early FWW about how to set up to resharpen bandsaw blades, but had never tried it.
   A couple years ago I watched a YouTube video by a guy who bought a new, brand name bandsaw blade and ripped a piece of wood using a cord, pulley, and weight to feed it automatically and consistently. As I remember, it took about 27 seconds to cut the wood. He then sharpened this new blade, and it took less than 10 seconds to cut the same wood with the same set-up. So I looked at my old blades, and discovered that they had had the teeth formed (either by grinding or punching out), then set, and then sold to me. This left the teeth improperly shaped for ripping, as the tops were angled instead of perpendicular to the body of the blade. They should have been sharpened after being set (the same as for a rip hand saw.) This motivated me to set up to resharpen the stash of dull blades I had, which involved creating a roller support near the 10' ceiling in my sharpening room, and an angled table to support the blade the same height as the middle of the grinder shaft. After sharpening one, I tried it out and it cut better than new. So I sharpened all the rest.
   This got me thinking about all the dull blades hanging next to my 14" Delta band saw. The skip tooth blades I could sharpen easily with an electric chain saw sharpener. The narrow blades with triangular teeth I sharpened with a triangular file just like a hand saw. Excellent results again.
   As I am 77 years old, I figure I'll never have to buy another bandsaw blade.
   I'll attach a couple pictures. In the first one, the blade is held parallel to the edge of the table, and the top of the tooth is touched to the grindstone to sharpen it. I do all the teeth at the same time, rather than trying to set up with a stone on the other end of the grinder to do alternate teeth (as you would with a hand saw.) It requires very little metal removal to sharpen the teeth; try a light touch first. Eventually, after many sharpenings, you might have to deepen the gullets and/or reset the teeth. I should mention that your sharpening stone needs to be fairly true to keep the angle of the tooth tops the same.
   I encourage all to try this, as it should make your bandsaw cut better and keep your money in your pocket (or going to other nifty new tools for your shop.)

   
7. 
   ds_nect | Aug 07, 2022 09:53pm | #9

   I have a 14 in. bandsaw and if you're getting 200 lineal feet of good resaw, or resaw and ripping, performance out of your steel blades, especially at 1 h.p., you are doing just fine, or better than fine. And, yes, once a steel bandsaw blade starts to dull, the performance goes south quickly. But so what--even good steel blades are cheap, like $20+/-, and the value they deliver is excellent. Whatever you're cutting is much more valuable than the blade, which is a consumable, just like sandpaper. ..Also, no, a carbide bandsaw blade is not going to work well, or even at all, with a 14 in. saw.

1. 
   gulfstar | Aug 07, 2022 10:10pm | #10

   Have you tried a carbide bandsaw blade on your 14 inch bandsaw ? :)

2. 
   john_c2 | Aug 08, 2022 12:52am | #11

   Lumping all 14 inch saws together is like saying "pickup truck." There is a huge range of capabilities. I had a 14"Delta clone that couldn't resaw butter, no matter what I did to it. I have a Laguna 14" now that resaws great with a carbide blade. When there is a fault, it's with the blade, not the saw.

3. 
   elmaduro | Aug 08, 2022 01:55am | #12

   And not all carbide blades are created equal. I had two expensive Laguna carbide blades break on me in short order under light ripping (sounded like a .22 going off). Will never buy Laguna blades again. Now using Highland Woodworking premium carbide blades with no issues on a Laguna 14/12.

1. 
   gulfstar | Aug 08, 2022 10:23am | #13

   My one inch Laguna Resaw King was on my 14SUV almost permenantly for years before requiring Re-sharpening, which turned out they sent me a new blade . At that rate it will still be on there for a few years and it sees frequent usages , it’s resawn hardwood logs up to 14 inches dia, Padauk and Mahogany veneers, Ipe, Teak, white oak. Elm, etc…well over 2000 linear feet .

8. 
   DRBWWing | Aug 08, 2022 10:50am | #14

   I've heard it can be an issue on a 14" saw, and that the Laguna blade is designed for one.

   Woodslicer blades dull rather quickly resawing hardwoods.

   I suggest you give the Infinity rip blades a try. No question for me, the are better than Woodslicer.

   I have a carbide for my 18" saw. Does a great job, but I still have to rejoint between cuts when doing veneer or laminations.

   The cut quality is definitely superior, but for resawing the main factor is longevity. Keep in mind the kerf is much wider so you loose more material.

9. 
   gulfstar | Aug 08, 2022 11:41am | #15

   The resaw king has a 0,041 inch kerf, the woodslicer 0,031 and the infinity probably the same, they only spec the blade thickness at 0,022. 0.010 inch ( 10 thousands) wider kerf for the carbide.