Just finishing building the federal card table that steve latta has shown in the December issue. Having problems fitting the card table hinges. The hinges are installed with the top butting at 180 deg with the base (both pieces laying flat). The problem is I can not fold the top onto itself. The top back edges hitting each other prevent the folding to occur. I done some slight rounding of the back tops but that did not help much. I don’t want to go too far in rounding these edges at this point. Do I just keep rounding these two top edges until I can fold the tops??? I made up small sample tops (only 6″ wide) and had to round the edges only slightly to fold but with the actual tops are 36″ wide so I don’t know how much rounding may be required. If you round these edges too much how will that end up looking??? any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Replies
Rounding the edges will end up looking poor, but you probably don't have any choice. You could try planing the leaves a little thinner on the mating faces.
If you ever make another card table, clamp the leaves together with a thin piece of card board between the leaves ( the kind of card board that is on the back of scratch pads is what I use). Then mount the hinges on the surface, and see how you like the opening. Once you are satisfied with the way the leaves open, then scribe around the hinges and inlet them. This will prevent the leaves from rubbing and it will also insure that the leaves meet nicely at the front when closed, assuming the tops are perfectly flat. This hinge setting method only works with the hinges that have a link connecting the arms. These types of hinges are sold by Londonderry, and Horton. Some hinges are made like a folding rule joint and the card board trick won't work.
Rob Millard
americanfederalperiod.com
Hi Rob,
Thanks for the reply and info. I think your right in it's most important that the front edges meet when the leaves are folded. I am using the Horton card table hinges. I will try and shave off a small amount from the back of each leaf which should be the same as your cardboard method. This will leave a small opening when the leaves are opened but I guess I don't have that many choices.
thanks again for your ideas.
Ron Hilliard
ron,
Just to restate what I think Rob said, in a different way. It sounds as if the two tops are binding as they come over center. Likely the hinges are set just a bit too far away from the faces of the tops. I like to inlet Horton's hinges so that their "fat" part (the area next to the link) stands just the least bit proud (maybe 1/32") of the surface of the tops, and proud of the tops' edges, as well. That will leave a gap (no more than 1/16") between the tops' faces when they are folded together, (same as Rob's cardboard trick), and also a gap of 1/16" between the tops when they are open. Otherwise, as you've discovered, any bow along the length of either top, or variation in thickness, will put things in a bind.
Regards,
Ray Pine
Hi Ray,
you are right that they bind together as they come over center. Your suggestions are helpful in I inlet the "fat" part flush with the surface rather than the 1/32" higher that you are recommending. This was my first go at a piece that had a folding top and I thought that the top would look nicer with no gap when open but see now that a small gap is necessary so no binding occurs. Thanks for the input
Ron Hilliard
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