Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Oct 15, 2008 10:00pm | #1

   Several options:

   Like This:

   View Image 

   http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/markvcasters.htm

   Or, consider mounting standard heavy duty casters on the legs, and installing threaded feet beside them so you can lower the feet for use, and raise them for moving, or use these:

   View Image

   http://www.drillspot.com/products/122158/Generic_4W805A_Retractable_Position_Floor_Lock

   Or, look at this post:

   http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Retractable_Casters_for_Woodshop_Workbenches.html

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   jf4 | Oct 15, 2008 10:08pm | #2

   Mike, thanks a lot.

1. 
   EdHarrow | Oct 16, 2008 12:25am | #3

   Within the last few issues in our host's magazine (FWW), there was a description about a home-brew solution that used a scissors jack for the raising and lowering function.  Quite slick.

2. 
   gerrynocab1948 | Oct 16, 2008 08:47am | #4

   I saw some time ago a Yankee workshop programme, where he made a simply drop down hinge with casters for his work bench. it took seconds to drop down the casters and move the bench. If anyone out there has a copy of that design it may help both of us, as I to have the same problem.

   The sissor jack system shown earlier, I am sure will work,but takes up valueble space below the bench and is far more complecated that the design I have mentioned.

   Thank you JF4 for your comments on wood burning stoves

1. 
   Jimurock | Oct 16, 2008 03:32pm | #5

   It's still available from NYW, item # 0207.  However it's for a lightweight assembly table, not a workbench with vises and drawers.  I don't think it would work unless you have biceps like Mike Tyson's..

   Cheers, Jim

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 17, 2008 03:49am | #6

   I am not selling anything! Just some links I found.

   As to the original poster, you would still have the problem of 'lifting' the bench to engage the casters!

   http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct.php?0207

   I have a OLD style HTC-3000 on my bandsaw. I could not use my bandsaw without it. I have a VERY small shop. I'm moving tools all the time. I think I spend more time doing that than actual woodworking!

   However I have to grunt alot to slide the back end over because there are only swivel casters on one end! Damn! Hard to do at my age!

   http://www.htcproductsinc.com/umb.html

   This caster base is in sections so I just attached to the original shipping base which was about 1 inch thick plywood!It has foot petals to get one end off the ground so you can move the item. No heavyweight here and I can do it with ease (the lift petals that is)

   Edited 10/16/2008 9:05 pm by WillGeorge

1. 
   jf4 | Oct 17, 2008 05:08am | #7

   Will, thanks for the info. I like Norm Abrams design, but it won't work well on my bench. My workbench will be used for storage as well and will be very heavy. The HTC bases are great. I have one for my 16" planer and it rolls around with ease. They are well worth the money in my opinion. I'd like to figure out a way to get the casters on some sort of a hing and then have a lever/handle that I can push down to engage the casters when needed. I'm thinking of maybe using a metal pipe for a hinge. Then have some way of locking the handle in the down position when rolling the bench. I'd be interested in anyones ideas on this.

1. 
   Jimurock | Oct 17, 2008 05:20am | #8

   Check out the levelling casters on this page:  http://www.greatlakescaster.com/categories.php?cat=245

   There's another company that makes heavy-duty retractable casters but I can't remember the name.  Perhaps someone else can?

   Jim

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 17, 2008 05:37am | #9

   Delta's mobile base for the Unisaw has a lever-operated wheel that's a breeze to use.  Wonder if something similar would work with your bench?  Here's a picture of a smaller Delta base that uses the same mechanism:View ImageYou push down on that lever with your foot to engage the wheel, pull up to set the machine down.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   jf4 | Oct 17, 2008 05:58am | #10

   Forestgirl,  thanks for the info.  Don't know if that would really work on the bench I'm building.  It's going to be rather large - over 7' long.  It will also have drawers and cabinet space below the work top for storage, so it will be heavy.  I'd like the legs of the workbench to be able to sit flat on the shop floor when in use.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 17, 2008 04:00pm | #11

   I'd like the legs of the workbench to be able to sit flat on the shop floor when in use.

   A package of pine shims costs about A doller US! The fancy plastic stuff about $1.50!

3. 
   RalphBarker | Oct 17, 2008 07:04pm | #12

   "I'd like the legs of the workbench to be able to sit flat on the shop floor when in use."How about mounting a pair of automotive floor jacks beneath the bench on the narrow ends?

4. 
   jf4 | Oct 17, 2008 07:47pm | #13

   Ralph, that is a good idea. The jacks are cheap enough and I would have room for them.

5. 
   RalphBarker | Oct 17, 2008 07:59pm | #14

   The only complications I see are offsetting the jacks so the handle sockets are accessible, and changing the fixed casters they usually have at one end. But, they would certainly solve the weight problem.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 18, 2008 12:30pm | #15

   I would thing if the support bar for the casters goes over-center it WILL stay there.

4. 
   EF | Oct 27, 2008 11:55am | #24

   I like the "Norm Abrams design" also, it is a variation on ways to move sets in live theater. I have an 8" jointer on such a setup.The jointer weights ~390Lb. Works well for me. The way I got around the heavy lifting is to use a hand cart (aka hand truck) to lift one end at a time to let the casters fall down to roll or set it on the floor. See pictures. With the hand cart I can lift one end up with ~40-60 pounds of downward force on the end of the hand cart. Edward

   
1. 
   jf4 | Oct 28, 2008 04:52am | #25

   Edward,Thanks for the info and the pictures. It was very helpful. Looks like you have a perfect set up there.

2. 
   EF | Oct 28, 2008 06:45am | #26

   You are welcome. Maybe it is over built... For your work bench I would hinge the board with the casters to the outside cross member. I didn't because I never thought of it until it was too late... I would have added two more 2x8's to each end and then-- well you see where that is going. If you do it to a work bench let me know how you end up doing it. You do need room to lift the braces out of the way when you take it off the casters, that is what the rope is for, it isn't heavy -just two pieces of 2x4 about 6 inches long, that have to pull out of the way. Lifting up on the end with the hand cart makes the casters and the 2x4 pieces just fall into place.
   Edward

3. 
   gossamershavings | Oct 19, 2008 08:34am | #19

   i tried that system from nyw for my table saw ,which sits on a large cabinet.it might work for a light table, but lifting my saw to engage the hinge wheels was a pain! i made a cambered jack out of wood to lift it with body weight(iam 230) but it was still a pain! i ended up getting 4 castors that lock in both directions(swivel and rolling) and have not regretted it.might work for a bench.they are soooo worth the money

3. 
   mike4244 | Oct 18, 2008 06:56pm | #16

   As a thought, sometimes adding sled type runners are more suited than casters.If you do not need to move the bench from one end of the shop to the other the runners may be a good option. I originally had a mobile base on my jointer.I removed it one day because I needed the base for something else. I was going to purchase another mobile base until I realized I never move the jointer more than a couple of feet.I added runners made from scrap 2x4's. Works fine, did the same for a cabinet I made that sits in front of an inactive door of a pair of doors.In case I need to open this door the cabinet will easily slide.Seems that most of the time when a workbench needs to be moved,it only gets slid one way or another.

   mike

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 19, 2008 05:09am | #18

   What do you grab hold of to move your jointer on those sleds?  I get concerned about grabbing one of the tables (mine's on an old furniture dolly, wheels are small).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 19, 2008 06:06pm | #20

   (mine's on an old furniture dolly, wheels are small).

   My Jointer is on a furniture dolly (Maybe $25.00 at the local Big Box) Works great.

   The carpeting keeps the Jointer from moving. Jointer sort of squashed into the carpet. My shop is very small and I am constantly moving machines.

    I just grab one of the tables and push/pull away. I am careful not to 'force' it while moving so as not to tip it over. However I do not 'overly' worry about it. I have never had it give any indication of 'tipping'.

   Also, I have never had to adjust the tables. It is moved almost every day.

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Oct 20, 2008 04:47am | #21

   I should think there would be a world of difference between moving a jointer on a smooth rolling dolly as compared to tugging, dragging and lifting one on the bare floor.  I have drug my 750 lb. jointer but I use the provided lifting bars to do so.  Since I have a rather large shop, I'm not sure whether I should get some wheels.  I have wondered for a long time why a simple castor that would either bolt onto the machine or an angle iron frame and would either slide up and down or hinge is not more common.  Maybe because they aren't that simple.

   Edited 10/19/2008 9:52 pm ET by Tinkerer3

2. 
   mike4244 | Oct 21, 2008 02:46am | #23

   I pull the infeed table towards me and out far enough to suit me. I don't lift the tables,just pull. After reading your post I agree that lifting a jointer table is a bad idea.My jointer slides easily, 6" jointer on vinyl tile floor.

   If the machine has to be lifted ,even a little bit, go with casters.

   mike

4. 
   EdgeGrain | Oct 18, 2008 08:44pm | #17

   Trailer wheel jacks - the ones that raise and lower with a hand crank. A friend has these for a heavy wood lathe and they work great. He set them up so they lift against a 3 sided bracket attached to the bench which engages a taper sided block on the jack mount plate. He just slips the jack in place and cranks the handle to engage and lift the bench. He can wheel his lathe up a ramp into a trailer. Look around at the discount places - you can get 4 for 75 dollars or less. Each jack can lift 1000 pounds.

5. 
   Scott_y | Oct 20, 2008 10:08pm | #22

   You could put the workbench on upside down bowls connected with shop vac hosing. Reverse your hose and attach the blower end to one of the bowls. Turn on your shop vac and you have a hover craft bench.  You heard it here first!

    

   Scotty