Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 09, 2005 05:19pm | #1

   Sawdust,

   Can you explain what you mean by paint sealer? A claer coat over paint? What kind of paint? Are you painting the cabinets or just clear-coating?

   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   Sawdust2655 | Jul 09, 2005 07:36pm | #2

   Looking to create a distressed finish.  Two coats of different color paint, distressed by lightly sanding the edges to give an antique effect...then to  seal the paint finish to prevent oils from finger / food prep from penetrating the cabinet face.

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Jul 09, 2005 10:33pm | #4

   Okay. That's a pretty standard finish. I guess you're starting with bare wood and going from there.Manufacturers use a variety of finishes; rapid cure technology like infra-red (IR) or ultra-violet (UV) ovens are becoming more standard with the big companies. The topcoats are applied by a machine and sent through the oven on a conveyor and the work comes out the other end ready to assemble and/or pack up and ship. Self-curing catalyzed finishes like pre-catalyzed lacquer, post-catalyzed lacquer and conversion varnish are more popular with the smaller manufacturers and custom shops. You never know what finish is on a manufactured piece (furniture or cabinetry)."Paint" can be made from pretty much any finish. Take a water-base finish and add pigments and you have a "latex" paint. Take a varnish and add pigments and you have an "oil-base" paint. The same goes for lacquers (nitro-cellulose [NC], pre-catalyzed [pre-cat], and post-catalyzed [post-cat]) and conversion varnish (CV). Conversion varnish is the most durable of these. Many finish suppliers will mix lacquers and CV in any color you want. Chemcraft, Becker Acroma, Sherwin Willimas Chemical Coatings, and ML Campbell are some of the widely available, good quality brands to choose from.I use pre-cat lacquer paint most of the time for cabinetry (including kitchens) but use CV when the added durability is specified. With pre-cat lacquer, the catalyst is added by the manufacturer or distributor and it's good for six months or more. With post-cat lacquer and CV you add the catalyst yourself and generally have to use it within 8 hours; after that it's no longer good.These finishes are all designed for professional use so they figure you'll be working in a properly ventilated space with the correct personal safety equipment like a fresh air mask or respirator and spray suit, etc..
   Paul S
   Website

1. 
   Sawdust2655 | Jul 12, 2005 01:06pm | #5

   Thanks, Paul / Mike.  The information you provided will be very helpful.

   Gary

2. 
   mikegagne | Jul 09, 2005 08:08pm | #3

   I assume your product is Sherwin Williams or a similar type. Use catalyzed vinyl sealer (thinned with lacquer thinner) in a light pass. Let dry an hour then use a sanding sponge to smooth the surface and the apply a "full wet" second coat. Over night drying is best then but one hour will work also before the next sponging. (I use 3M fine sponges) Catalyzed conversion varnish in "medium rubbed" or "bright rubbed" is my preferred topcoat. I use these products exclusively on kitchen and office cabinetry and find them to be very good performers. Aloha, mike