I’m curious if any of you have built a cedar strip canoe. I’ve been looking at the books Canoecraft and Kayakcraft. Both of them seem to be very informative. Just wondering if anyone has any recomendations on those, or other books. Or if anyone has any advice when it comes to making one. Thanks.
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Why not log on and ask the question here, where there are 7700+ wood boatbuilders and enthusiasts, many professionals among them?
http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=1&submit=Go
Like anything else, there are lots of ways to build a cedar canoe....from cove and bead strips to cold-molding with veneers to heavier strip planking. All of involves molds faired to the hull's curves...some involves lofting or transferring dimensions from a full-sized drawing laid down on plywood. None of it especially difficult but it is a bit of a specialty better known on the Woodenboat Forum.
Hope to see you there.
“When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin.
Funny how you should ask...
I would recommend Canoe Craft by Ted Moores. He has two editions of the same book and they are slightly different and the plans in the 2 books are also different. Another is Featherweight Boatbuilding by "Mac" McCarthy. The most thorough book is Illustrated Guide to Wood Strip Canoe Building by Susan Van Leuven. This one is a hardback book. All can be found on Amazon.com
My son chose to build the "Wee Lassie" in the book by McCarthy. His book gives a little more how and where he canoes, not just construction. Length is just under 12'(one man canoe)
This weekend is the first time that we will be working on this canoe since we moved up to Washington. It is part of my son's senior project that is required for graduation. We picked up the cedar yesterday. Spent the last week wiring the garage for 220 single/three pase. Couldn't even turn on the planer without blowing a breaker.
I'm really impressed with the table you made for your molds, and the molds themselves. No doubt your canoe will be a work of art. You should pass the molds along to someone when you've finished so they can take advantage of your time and craftsmanship.
I've built/been involved in building several - - whole bunch of us passed around a strongback several years ago - - I'm sure the books and other forum will be valuable to you - my advice is to pay particular attention to the nailers in the bow and stern (easy to add a lot of weight there without adding any benefit) and to use the appropriate A+ #1 material for the gunnels (ash is good, clear split instead of sawn would be ideal) as this has been the place that has recieved the most maintainance over the years -
have fun -
Gil Gilpatrick also has a fine book with patterns for building strip canoes. All the assembly work is broke down into small sub-assy projects. Gil has a web page where you can find his books. AMAZON etc. also carry them.
Some day I'll be building one too. I've been saying that for +25 years & I still mean it. As I now that I live in Phoenix, the white water capital of AZ (yeah right) I may actually get around to building one.
Good luck on building your stripper!
My brother and I built two cedar strip canoes about 15 years ago, and it was one of the best projects I've ever had. We built the canoes side by side in my parents' garage, so we had two separate strongbacks and sets of forms. We also used the Canoecraft book, which is excellent. Both our canoes were the Redbird model, and we took them to Canada several times for fishing / camping trips.
We used the bead & cove strip approach which worked well. We glued each strip to the preceding strip with hot melt glue, because it cured fairly quickly while we held it in place. Once it is coated with epoxy & fiberglass the glue used to hold the strips together is negligible. We used West Systems epoxy, and were very pleased with their products. The fiberglass / epoxy process is messy, so make sure you consider that when planning your construction location.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Craig
I built a strip canoe two years ago.I bought 5/4 cedar decking. Ripped down to 1/4" on bandsaw. Used router to make bead and cove. You do not need special bits, a 1/4" bullnose and roundnose bits.I did not use staples, made clothespin type of clamps to hold strips to form. Next time I'll staple, much easier. Use tightbond glue, Raka epoxy.
mike
I will second the Gil Gilpatrick recommendation. I have read his book, as well as Canoecraft and others, and for a first effort I would strongly recommend Gilpatrick's approach.
Ted Moore's boats are undeniably beautiful, but the Redbird in particular seems to sacrifice some performance to good looks.
Those high stems look great, but they detract from the performance.
Gilpatrick includes scale drawings of the forms, and lofting is a real PITA, especially if you've never done it, and don't really know what the end result should look like.
I built one of Gilpatrick's 16' designs about two years ago, and I couldn't be happier with it. I plan a shorter one, and then a kayak, as soon as time and finances permit.
Even if you opt for another designer's approach, Gilpatrick's book is worth the $15 or so.
I used Raka epoxy, which was great, and the Raka 5 oz cloth, which gave me some trouble.
If you're married, plan to do something nice for your wife before you start. You won't see much of her once you get going!
I tried to attach a pic, but I'm just not quite that smart!
I don't know what you want to use the boat for or what is important to you but ...
The books available (including those mentioned above) are unreasonably poor. Canoecraft in particular has poor scantlings, the offsets do not match the line drawings, and the offsets are not fair.
Doc,
A group of us started out building strippers several years ago. One of the guys picked up Moore's book during a trip to boundary waters in Minn. We've built 5 of the Hiawathas, then paddles, and are now finishing up bent paddles. We've been getting together for "canoes" on thursday nites for six or seven years now. One of the wives asked what was going to be next for us, after the canoes are completely outfitted. We're considering wooden strip walkers, but one of the canoe boys is agitating for a Maine guide boat session.
The canoes have been a great group project, all the boats are the same, since we all used the same strongback. But they are all different, too. Three are western cedar, two are redwood. One is trimmed in osage orange and maple. One is walnut and curly maple, one is cherry and birdseye trimmed, another is birch and redwood burl, the last is purpleheart and lacewood trimmed (no concern for weight there!) Seats are laced with nylon cord, multi-colored rope, and shaker tape. One is outfitted for sailing.
With the exception of one member of the "Mossy Creek Canoe Co." who moved to R.I., we get together at least once a year to put them in the water all at the same time. Usually that's Memorial Day.
Take the time to do the lofting right on the stations you will fasten the strips to. It takes so much time to make the form, that it makes sense to make more than one after you're set up. Plus it's more fun than working alone with those long floppy strips. Brainstorming goes better too, as does the inevitable session in "the moaning chair" when something goes wrong. In addition to the form, and materials for building, a fridge for beer is extremely helpful.
Best wishes,
Ray
I have both books you mentioned, built a canoe for myself and a kayak for my son. I used spruce(of course) and fir trim : strong , lightweight , economical. The cost of the wood pales in comparison to the cost of the fiberglass though.
The construction is no big deal to woodworker but it really helps to have an experienced fiberglasser on hand for that one stressful day.
I have never spoken to a canoist who regreted doing it.
Yes,I made it. No,not hard. Yes, a long time.
Here's a link to my list of canoe making websites and books:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~durgerian/id15.html
I'd encourage anyone making a woodstrip canoe to read John Michne's website carefully (on list above).
There is a lot of useful info out there. Look at many websites to see what people have done, and what they think is important, then think about what is important to you before deciding what approach to take. Are you after a superlight canoe you can get into the water this season, or do you want other woodworkers to be struck dumb and get down on their knees to study the details of your canoe? There are real errors to avoid, but watch out for criticism of someone else's method, that certainly works for its intended purpose, but doesn't please the writer.
There are very few irrevocable errors you can make in canoe building. It can take work to fix, and you can feel pretty stupid, but if you can make it, you can fix it. Turning a disaster into a decorative element is a wonderful thing (so I hear).
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