I need a design consultation….What is the best way to provide center support on a large (e.g. queen) bed? The ones we recently purchased have a 2×2 with a captured bolt extending out the end screwing into a captured nut on the bedslats. The problem is that when you try to move the bed, the leg drags on the floor and, since it is minimally supported by just one bolt, with no side-to-side support, it pulls on the captured nut and ends up at an angle. It seems that this design is flawed in that there is nothing preventing lateral movement, since it is only anchored in one spot. I have toosed around several different ideas. One is to run a piece of wood down the center of the bed (perpendicular to and under the slats) with rigidly-attached feet. Somehow rigidly attach this to head- and foot-board. Another would be to simply attach larger feet to the slats with more than one bolt, thereby preventing lateral movement. Also, ths slats appear to be softwood..should they be a more substantial hardwood?
Thanks much
Johnny
Replies
I supported the box spring on my queen sized bed by running a slat from the headboard to the footboard with a 2" square leg in the middle for support. You can buy the brackets from Rockler for a few bucks. I screwed the leg to the slat with two counter-sunk screws.
I would also suggest that you consider rounding the edges of the center leg and maybe attaching a plastic chair glide to the bottom to help address the issue of the leg snagging the carpet.
Best-
BVL
I know exactly what you are talking about.
Ours broke just from ........ sleeping, and stuff.
Seriously though, on the beds I built the center support is not a post but a skid. It looks like those wooden shoes they wear in Denmark. Most wood workers like to use thick hardwood slats that will span the space, but I prefer to save the good wood for other stuff.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
It sounds like you are trying to rid yourself of two kinds of movement. Sag in the slats, and movement that alters the squareness of the frame.
To eliminate the un-square problem, you need to make sure that the ends of each side rail are square and flat. Then you need a method of assembling the bed so that these joints are held TIGHT. The hook-and-slot bedrail connectors won't help here -- you need bolts.
The captive bolt and captive nut that you mention are probably what you need, but only if it is large enough (3/8 min), and only if its tight enough. Some bolt designs allow this by having the head accessible under a decorative metal plate on the outside of the leg posts -- and you can use a ratchet set. The hidden variety generally have holes through the end of the bolt, and you need to use a thin rod (like maybe an allen wrench?) as a wrench.
In either case, it is possible to tighten the bolts enough to hold the bed square.
As for eliminating sag, use a centerline slat (head to foot) made from 8/4 hardwood. and attach it to both head and foot somehow -- the best-made ones are dovetailed, but pockt screws work wonderfully too.
Then use 5/4 hardwood for the side to side slats. And attach one of these (the middle one) to both side rails.
By attaching the slats to all four sides, you have reduced the possibility of bowing at the sides, head, and foot. This will help with both the sag, and the diagonal movement.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Yes Maam-
Thanks very much for your detailed response.
The movement is not so much away from the squareness of the bedframe itself but rather movement of the additional "feet" running down the center of the bed, which keep the slats from sagging. Since they are so poorly attached, they drag on the floor when the bed is moved. So if I add the 8/4 hardwood down the center, I take it I can eliminate the "center feet"?
Good suggestion on the pocket holes. I find them to be extremely useful.
Thanks again--
Johnny
PS I have always said "yes ma'am" as a matter of courtesy..but sometimes a young lady will take offense, in that I am implying that she is "old"!
So if I add the 8/4 hardwood down the center, I take it I can eliminate the "center feet"?
Probably. The best way to know is to try.
And if that still leaves a bit of sag, then add a few more side to side slats than you now hav.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
I hit the same prob during the design stage of a bed I built a couple of years ago, resolving it by building slats that resembled parabaulic springs. By varying the thickness of the stiffeners I could provide extra strength in the centre without compromising any of the suppleness required (the brief was to build without box springs).
So far it's survived the ummmmmm.. "rigours" of newly-weds without complaint or excesssive squeaks...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I worked through the design process for a new bed with box spring and due to the height, size of the bed, and need to support in the middle I was not happy with any designs I came up with.
I bought this product and am very satisfied with the result:
http://www.universalbedlegs.com/
I bought the set of nine legs 5 inches high for a queen size bed. They are solid, don't hurt your feet, and allow the bed to slide around on the floor easily. The company's service was amazing - I had them in Canada from California in 5 days.
Now I am free to design the bed to fit around the boxspring without any worry about supporting the mattress. My wife has told me to forget the bed part and just make a fine headboard. The bed will be covered to the floor with one of her beautiful quilts.
Works for me.
These legs could also be used under a wood framed bed as support.
Edited 11/30/2006 10:33 pm ET by corners
Thanks for this reference. I think the legs will work just fine.
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