I have a job that requires 15, 7/32 x 6″ x 6″ ceramic tiles inlaid into a 30″ x 48″ coffee table top. The table will be painted (using popular and edge banded 3/4 birch plywood) and the tiles need to be removable (but inset so that the table top comes out flush). There will be no grout, just gravity keeping them in. I supose they can touch each other or could be slightly separated using some kind of grid. The tiles will be centered in a 3 x 5 tile layout. The top needs to be 3/4 birch plywood except for the area where the tiles sit. Any suggestions on ways to accomplish this? Thanks, indybill
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Have you considered a blob of silicone adhesive to secure the tiles in their places? It is (sort of) removable if you need to replace a tile.
If you want it permanent you could use liquid nails or something similar to stick the tiles.
What do you want to see in the space between the tiles when you look down from over the table?
Thanks TXJon, I guess I didn't explain this very clearly. What I am trying to figure out is how to inset the tiles down 7/32 into the top so the entire final top is flush. I thought of laminating 1/4" plywood with cut-outs for the tile on to 1/2" plywood but was concerned about getting the cut outs perfectly square (sure not with a hand held jigsaw). indybill
I still don't get it.
Are you wanting to replace the grout with a wood frame? For that I guess you would need rips of 7/16 X whatever you want for a "grout" line. Maybe half lap joints to put it all together.
If the tiles are to be butted together you could build a frame around them that is 7/16 proud of the tile substrate. Regular ceramic tiles might not be as uniform in thickness as plywood, though.
Maybe I'm still missing the boat...
I think the combination of douglas2cats (using 1/2" ply bisketed to a cut out in the 3/4" ply) along with your suggestion of thin ripped strips separating the tile is a good solution. Thanks to you both. indybill
I've used Corian in the center of cherry frame table tops and have the Corian held in place with double stick carpet tape. It's still removable but you have to apply a little pressure from below to start it lifting out of the frame.
As far as inlaying the tile flush - what about using 1/2" birch ply in the area under the tile and biscuit joint it to the 3/4 ply that's outside the tile area. You might have to fine tune the thickness of one or the other by 1/32 to get the flushness. But I'm wondering if you could get a little sag under the tile area. You've got a decent length span and the tile isn't all that light. You might need a little light crossbracing under the center??
If you build it - he will come.
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