Replies

1. 
   87bluejay | Oct 23, 2005 07:00am | #1

   I would try and contact a local sawyer with a band mill.  A chain saw has a substantially larger kerf than a band mill so you will be wasting alot of lumber. Also, you will spend a pretty penny for a chain saw with enough power and a large enough blade to cut logs that size.  (http://www.woodmizer.com)

   FWIW, I also recently acquired some large walnut and cherry logs. I'm getting it all sawn, dried and straight edge cut for 60 cents a bd/ft. (I live in central Indiana)

   Just a thought,

   dr

    

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Oct 24, 2005 02:57am | #2

   60 cts/bd.ft is a very good value, if not a steal on this type of wood!I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

1. 
   87bluejay | Oct 24, 2005 08:21am | #3

   Ain't that the truth!! At that price, I'm saving some serious money and going to end up with a huge stockpile of lumber that will last me a while. That's one of the good things about woodworkers, they take care of their own.

   dr

2. 
   tap5055 | Oct 24, 2005 05:49pm | #5

   I agree with using the bandsaw mill.  I have done it 3 times and it is very cheap for what you get.  The only downside is thickness is sometimes inconsistent as the bandsaw blades wander when they hit hard areas like knots.  Not enough to ruin the boards, but makes for a bit more work when trying to flatten the boards.  It taught me to use the jointer to flatten boards instead of assuming a planer could do it.

1. 
   87bluejay | Oct 24, 2005 11:10pm | #6

   That's what the sawyer said also. But, here in Indy, 4/4 Cherry is $6/bf. A little more work getting the boards down to size probably isn't going to cost me $5.40/bf. Heck, I'm already looking for some more timber!

   thanks,

   dr

2. 
   DennisS | Oct 24, 2005 08:41am | #4

   Sandwerks -

   I agree with the advice on finding someone with a bandmill to mill your lumber. For just the price of the chainsaw you can probably get it done and, as was mentioned, not waste nearly as much wood. Some of the custom sawyers with the likes of the Woodmiser setups are mobile and will come to your location if you have a lot of logs to mill. Otherwise if you take it to them it might even cost less.

   That said, if you have need of a chainsaw for other things, the Alaska mill works pretty well. I know, I read in another thread that some people think it's worthless but I saw a fellow at a local wood show making outdoor benches out of large diameter cedar logs using one of these and it produced a surprisingly smooth kerf. But the secret is to get, or have ground a ripping chain. An ordinary chain is set up for crosscut only and is highly inneficient in a ripping situation. Granted, walnut is considerably harder than western red cedar so, again as was advised, you'll need one hurkin' saw to power through your logs. You can expect to go through several tanks of gas in the process.

   That plus the cost of the mill (the Alaska mill is the least expensive I've come across) will far exceed the cost of having it milled. I had to take down a fairly large cedar next to my house (high winds plus tall cedars next to the house don't allow me to sleep soundly at night). I took the logs up to a mill and for $80 got well over $300 worth of full 2" x 14-16" planks that are drying as we speak.

1. 
   Glaucon | Oct 25, 2005 10:37pm | #7

   Any suggestions regarding saws for such work?  Husq or Stihl or something else?  How about sources for ripping chains?

    Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   jquinn | Oct 26, 2005 03:32am | #8

   If you have a lot of wood or access to a lot wood that you want to make into boards, then  the granberg alaskan saw mill is a good way to do it.  certainly cheaper than buying one of the band-saw mills.  the chain saw mills are easily portable way back into the woods, important if you don't have a tractor that can pull the logs out.  I can saw up and bring back at least two full 24"+ dia 8' logs back to my house at a time in the wagon, as longs as the terrain is not too bad.  The biggest log I have sawed up so far was almost 30" at the base (ash).  I can cut 2-3 large 8' sections in a day, mostly in the winter. 

   I cut a lot up every year - black cherry mostly, and then ash and walnut, since that's what has blown over that I can get to.  But not enough (and I don't have enough disposable income) to buy a band-saw mill.  I just do this on the weekends.  for the one-time sawyer, maybe it would be better to rent the services of someone with a band saw mill.

   I use a Stihl 66 with a 36" bar.  You can get aggressive cut chains at most lawn and garden dealers I would think - I bought mine from the same place that sold me the saw.  I think granberg recommends no less than 45ccs.  I started by using my dad's small homelite - it worked by barely, and there is no comparison to the stihl. I've never used husquavarnas, but an equal sized saw of theirs would be good too.  I don't think I would go with anything less if you will be getting into logs over 24" dia. To start the cut I use an 8' piece of pressurized 2x8, with angle iron screwed into on side - this is to guide the saw and not rock - works good.

   I bought a 4 wheel articluated wagon (about 6' long) from Northern Hydraulics to haul the wood back (these can also be ordered from other sources too).  I hope to get a small Kubota 4wd like the 7610 - maybe next season.  It would allow me to get to some more wood that the 20hp garden tractor (even with chains and wheel weights) can't get to.

   also, if you're going to cut a lot with the chain saw, buy a small electric bench mounted chain sharpener (like ones Oregon makes).  much more convenient than running to a shop to have blades sharpened, and some of the people in these shops don't know how to sharpen anyways - from my experience.

   I air dry (in the garage) all my wood.

    

1. 
   Glaucon | Oct 26, 2005 06:54am | #9

   Sounds like you've got it down to nearly a science.

   Thanks.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   jerry | Oct 26, 2005 11:30pm | #10

   we used run a chainsaw mill with 2 stihl 090's - even then it was work. a suggestion about the chain sharpener - get a portable 12v - hand held - for out in the field - makes touching up 9' of chain a lot easier.jerry

2. 
   ohcomeon | Oct 27, 2005 06:02am | #11

   Stihl and Husqvarna are the two big names, but Jonsered (basically a rebadged Husq in most cases) or Dolmar/Makita and Efco/Emak are all good saws.  For any consistent milling use you are looking at needing a big saw.  I use my Husqvarna 359 for the occasionall 2-3' log w/out any milling attachement, but at 60cc that is still undersized.

   A lot of the guys into milling look for used 85-90cc saws since many of the older saws were torqier, lower speed saws that are heavy and not used for much else these days.  A big saw can set you back a grand new and used will still cost a few hundred for something that can take the abuse.

   One note on the electric sharpeners; they can butcher a chain and take the temper out of the cutting teeth.  I prefer a file, though milling chain is gonna have a lot of teeth.  Bailey's (online) has ripping chain or you can have a local shop regrind a regular chain.  It is simply a matter of the angles.