Pic shows my latest (and first) endeavor with a ripping blade for my chain saw. Had a Cherry log about 7 ft long and about 20″ in diameter. I first cut it in half then squared up each of those pieces. It was all I could do to set a 3.5′ log log up on end! Anyway, have it in my shop now and it looks like I will get about 30 BF of 4/4 out of the log. Short pieces are great for what I do.
The ripping blade did cut pretty fast and did not tend to wander. My chain saw bar is pretty worn, too. Kerf was just a little shy of 1/2″ wide.
And, many THANKS to Dale Lenz for lending his monster jointer for flattening one side!! Also, his monster muscles!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Edited 11/16/2005 8:29 pm by PlaneWood
Replies
Hmmm. Looks like your chain is awfully loose -- I can see light between the bottom of the bar and the chain. If it comes off while you're running it you could be in for some excitement. Chainsaw gloves and a forestry helmet are a *real* good idea when running a rip chain.
Ripping perpendicular to the grain makes a lot of fine dust. If your logs are short enough, and the bar is big enough, you can rip with the teeth traveling parallel to the grain, which makes long shavings that are great mulch. And it's fun.
I happen to have a picture of my brother after completing such an operation.
I too just felled some maples and a cherry in my yard. Though I'll probably take them to a mill up the street in the next month or so can you tell me if it makes a difference whether i paint the ends with latex or oil paint to prevent checking? Thanks.
I cut that tree down and sectioned it up into logs in October of 2004. I did not seal the ends. I lost maybe 2" due to checking at each end. When I cut into it last week, it was still wet enough inside to drip water. And, 2005 has been one of the dryest on record for Oklahoma.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Hey guys, ya'll just answered a lot of questions for me. I just yesterday posted a question about processing short logs. I was going to split them up and mill them but I think I'll try to saw them with my chainsaw. You talked about using a ripping chain. Is this something that you purchased or is it a chain that you filed or had filed. At one time I was a professional sharpener and have sharpened many chains in the past. I think I can make a ripping chain by grinding a straight across the tooth. Is this what you did if not can you tell me where you bought it.
Thanks, ZABO
you are close to the mark. A ripping chain has about a 10 deg top and 75 deg side angle. Bailey's online has ripping chain pretty cheaply, already ground
I bought mine online at Baileys. Was about $28 if I remember correctly. They charge by the link and mine was for a 16" bar. Every other tooth is a narrow 'cleaning' link. Only half of the teeth cut, the other half clean out the kerf.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
This morning I had to pull out my Stanley #40 scrub plane to plane one chunk down enough so it would clear my bandsaw throat. Sure made fast work of it! Throat has just 6" clearance.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
have you ever tried use the alasken sawmill rig? I bought one afew yrs ago . works great for rough slabs.
Do you have a link for Bailey's?
Thanks,Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
http://www.baileys-online.com/Andy"It seemed like a good idea at the time"
Hoadley recommends acrylic latex primer for the wet surface followed by parafin, urethane, or aluminum paint. My father likes glue size. I like to take the wet stuff and put it on the lathe, rough turn it, and air dry before final turning. ;)
That's why I stopped in the middle of the job - to tighten the chain. I've had them come loose before with no problem. As soon as they come loose, the chain disingages from the clutch sprockets. No big deal. New chains always stretch more.
That Husqvarna is about 30 years old and has seen bodacious quantities of wood.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Yeah, I've had the chain come off my Husky too. Big bar, long chain keeps going for a couple of seconds. I've actually had it come around and hit my chaps, although I don't know if it would've gone through the jeans underneath if I hadn't been wearing the chaps.
Last time I saw a chain saw THAT big I was in NAM!
Chainsaws are wonderful crude tools. You can save a lot of money by ripping your own planks. If you do it by hand however you will invest a lot of time, jointer blades and planer blades on out of square stock. My advice would be consider the wear& tear on your tools, your time, wasted stock and invest in either an alaskan mill or better yet a woodbug http://www.woodbug.com/ . My brother has one and has built his entire timberframe house with his. Now he has taken his son out of school for a year and is building a cabin with him. His costs for wood are fuel/oil for chainsaw. I'll try to get him to include a pic on his blog of his woodbug in action. http://baxdadexcellentadventure.blogspot.com/
If you only do this occasionally... I just spotted this on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.ca/1-BEST-CHAINSAW-SAWMILL-CHAIN-SAW-WOODWORKING-TOOL-USA_W0QQitemZ7562903845QQcategoryZ20791QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Byron
Edited 11/19/2005 12:40 pm ET by Grizzly
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