Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 25, 2004 01:49am | #1

   Dennis, are you using self stick discs?  Or perhaps the older type that require you to apply adhesive?  My experience is with the  more 'User Friendly'self stick type

   Here's an interesting trick I discovered when I got P O ed too many times, when the $%$#$ discs stuck on off centered.

   Before applying the new disc, use a razor blade to slice the paper backing in half then remove Only one half.

   place the covered half down through the space in the table.

   Then, align the sticky half to the top semicircle and press into place.

    Rotate wheel 180 dg's and remove protective paper and press the remainder. DONE! 

   Oh yes, Save the two semicircles of paper to use again  as you remove the discs to save when you change to a finer grit. Stein.

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 25, 2004 06:26pm | #6

   Stein -

   I'm using the self stick disks. I eneded up taking the table off the machine in order to get the face of the metal disk clean. Don't have that much trouble getting a new sanding disk on but getting all the gunk off the metal disk is where I got in trouble. Maybe I left the old one on too long?

   Like I said, I had to scrub it off with lacquer thinner. What a mess. But I will certainly ascribe to your 'half & half' method for installing the new one - will indeed make that part easier.

   Thanks for thee tip.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

2. 
   Lumpy | Jan 25, 2004 07:10am | #2

   Dennis

   My local tool store sells self adhesive Velcro for 12" sanders. (they also sell Velcro sanding discs) I removed the table and made sure I got the Velcro on exactly right. Now when I put the paper on I use the original plastic backing from the sticky Velcro disc, position it on the back side of the sanding disc, slide it into place and remove the plastic sheet. To remove I peel the Velcro apart down to the table, fold the plastic sheet in half, slip it in between, rotate the sander around and peel the other side apart and slide it out. When I write it all out it seems more complicated than it really is.

   Hope it helps

   Lumpy

3. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 25, 2004 07:19am | #3

   Get off what you can then apply paint thinner and let it set over night.  A single edge razor blade scraper helps.  The kind with a handle.  I buy those blades 100/box at HD.  Lacquer thinner will dry to fast and will not soak in well.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

4. 
   dondownunder | Jan 25, 2004 11:59am | #4

   Dennis

   I use cloth backed abrasive & Bear Disc cement. The discs come off fairly easily but stay on when they need to.

   Don

5. 
   koikid | Jan 25, 2004 04:34pm | #5

   Dennis,    It's been so long since I used my disk sander I don't remember if there is even a disk on it or not!  Think it's part of one...I remember they were always a pain to get every thing off the plate so you have a clean smooth surface. How I do with most sticky stuff to get it off anymore is WD40  you know like in the stores on PVC plumbing where the smart people put the price labels right on the glue surface?  With a good single edge razor and a can of WD40 you ought to be able to get it all with out to much effort.  Then clean the disk with alcohol, thinner before re applying new disk. If your front 1/2 cover removes, I would take it off first.

   Marsh

6. 
   patternmaker | Jan 25, 2004 06:53pm | #7

   Dennis: I am still using a lot of plain 16" discs that I purchased years ago from a bankrupt supplier.

   I use disc cemment from Freeman Supply Co.

   Disc removal consists of peeling the old disc and removing any residue by rubbing with the fingers. It slides right off. You may be under using a very useful shop tool. As a patternmaker,I learned long ago how to use the disc as a duplicating tool for convex curves. Fasten a thin strip if metal to the edge of a flat piece of plywood.Edge of the metal strip about 1/4"above the ply table.Clamp this to the table with the metal edge just barely missing the disc. Your sanding template will be the thickness of the metal smaller than your finished line.after bandsawing close to the line you can sand as many duplicates as the job requires.

   The same idea works on the drum sander to produce both convex and concave shapes. Of necessity, the drum setup requires the setup piece to surround the drum.

   I am sorry if I got carried away and off the subject.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

1. 
   Shel | Jan 26, 2004 05:43am | #10

   Pat,

   Could you post a picture or a sketch of the guide to help me get a better idea of how it works? tia. Shel

1. 
   patternmaker | Jan 26, 2004 05:55am | #11

   I wish that I could,but my web tv unit will not support a scanner.I will try to have a friend do this for me in a day or two.

   Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

7. 
   forestgirl | Jan 25, 2004 07:45pm | #8

   Hi Dennis, hope you and yours are well!  re: the disc problem -- the fact that there was so much glue and even some paper left may be a clue.  It's cold up there, right?!  Next time you need to change the disc, try heating it up with a hair dryer or heat gun (caution there) before peeling it off.  I'll bet things go much more smoothly that way.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

8. 
   davearnone | Jan 25, 2004 10:57pm | #9

   Dennis, we squirt a stream of isopropyl alcohol into crevis between the wheel and disk as we peel it off.  Works great.  Dont use acetone or anything that dissolves the adhesive or you get a sticky mess.

   Remove dbl stick tape the same way.
   dave

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 26, 2004 06:58pm | #12

   Thanks, Dave, I'll give that a shot next time. At least alcohol won't be so hard on my floor sealer.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

9. 
   JDiedrich | Jan 27, 2004 12:29am | #13

   Hi,

   You can remove excess glue and paper by turning on the sander and using a large screwdriver against the metal disc.  Makes a heck of a racket, but it's effective.

   Jim

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 27, 2004 06:58pm | #14

   JD-

   That sounds fairly suicidal! (grin)

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

1. 
   JDiedrich | Jan 27, 2004 07:23pm | #15

   This method works fine.  I have done this for 30 years.  I think I first learned this at MSU.

   J. Diedrich

1. 
   DennisS | Jan 28, 2004 10:24am | #17

   JD-

   I'm sure it works fine .... but from the time I've spent turning, I think it's a bit risky to be suggesting this method to anyone not familiar with out tools react to beng stuck more or less perpendicularly into a spinning surface! (grin). My sanding wheel/disk is, I think, aluminum. Thus I suspect one would also need to be a bit careful not to start turning the disk into a work of art over time!

   Just kidding.

   I did use steel wool on the wheel while it was spinning which proved to be a rather high pucker factor operation. I will, however, try your screwdriver techinque next time. Meanwhile I'll be a bit more respective of the disk so's not to have to replace it as often.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

1. 
   JDiedrich | Jan 29, 2004 04:59pm | #18

   I've never seen an aluminum wheel for a disc sander before.  The disc sanders that I've used all had a steel disc.  I don't know if the screwdriver trick would be a good thing to do on aluminum.  On steel it works great.

   J. Diedrich

10. 
    CJohn | Jan 28, 2004 05:58am | #16

    After you get all the junk cleaned off your disc and its clean and dry, spray 3M's Super 77 on the sander disc and paper. I made a template for the sander disc and the table so you don't have to worry about over spray. Work fast so the adhesive is still a little wet so you can move the paper around to center on sander disc.