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I need a counter sink for wood screws that does not chatter. Anyone have any reccomendations? Not the kind that also drills the hole; just the countersink. For use in a drill press. What’s the standard taper for wood screws? 60 degrees? I need one at least 5/8″ diameter.
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Replies
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the best i have tried are the weldon style. they have a single flute and are designed for metal working, but work very well on wood. i believe both lee valley and garrett wade sell them,as well as any machinist supply house (mcmaster-carr or grainger...) the standard for wood screw is, i believe, 82 degrees? someone will come along who knows more....
*Mike, I use a 5/8 82 in the drill press. This is designed for metal work so I run it at high speed and feed slow. It does a very nice job. The one I got as an experiment I bought at Ace Hardware, the brand name is Vermont America. It worked and I'm still using it. If you need a 5/8 - 60 then just use a 5/8 high speed drill bit, I think its pretty close to 60 deg.Steve
*The old style snail countersink for a hand brace won't chatter. If you are using a drill press, go to the highest speed to reduce chatter.Stephen
*I hope you guys don't use your countersinks at high speed when your working with metal. the slower the speed in metal the better. i think the most important thing to getting good results when your countersinking is to use a sharp bit and to take a final light pass that just shaves a little bit of wood off. a heavy feed rate combined with runnout is usually the cause of chatter.
*ajepson.. Ahhh but they put off such a lovely red glow..S
*Mike, I often use rotary files as countersinks. If they are "double cut" they don't chatter. The single cut ones grab the wood. Carbide or high speed steel work the same.
*Ditto on the weldon style. Leaves a very smooth surface.
*Mike, this may sound overly simple, but try this: countersink BEFORE you drill the hole. the reason it's chattering is because the point has nowhere to grab, and it's moving around in the already drilled hole. SB
*Much of the problem can be solved by using a bit that has variably-spaced cutting teeth. I bought one from Lee Valley (German made) and it works very well (product # 45J11.05 priced at $13.50).Scott's prior message of countersinking before drilling well may have merit; never thought of it that way.
*Here's the best, chatter-free countersink I ever bought and used--solid carbide, lasted forever until it hit a concrete floor on a fall from the workbench:http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/store/product_pages/CS6034.html?L+scstore+lhzy8619ff438443+1029210981
*Okie - I just ordered a couple of the Lee Valley bits. Thanks!Scott- due to production requirements, I have to drill the center hole first. Long story.Bill - WOW! $92 for a countersink is a bit high for me!Thanks all!
*Mike--Understood, $92 is way more than I'd pay for a countersink, too. The one I had (3/4-in.) I bought in about 1984 from an industrial tool supplier and paid about $20 for it. I posted the Jamestown Dist. address because they had a great photo to illustrate what I was talking about.
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