Hope someone can help. I am thinking of building a chess/checker table and wanted some recommendations or websites on typical or goodlooking contrasting woods. I would also like any advice for layout and joinery of mutliple little squares and any gluing techniques where it meets the end grain on some pieces (bisquit joiner?). Thanks in advance.
Nate
Replies
Walnut and maple are often used. I've built a few boards, and recommend building the outer perimeter first, and cutting the squares with a slight bevel, about 5 degrees to ease them in place. Should any be slightly off, they're easy to pare down.
Of course, dry fit first. Good luck
Thanks for the info. I probably start this week.
Nate: I build several of these each year to donate to the church`s fundraiser. I generally use the offcuts from earlier jobs for the tops. I don`t use the separate square method that has been described,although I see no reason why this would not work if you don`t mind the extra cutting and fitting.
I use 1-7/8"for the basic square size. I rip and edge joint separate pieces of walnut and maple,or whatever you use for the contrast to 1-7/8" wide X length of about 16".You will need 4 pieces of each.
Now edge glue these pieces side by side alternating the light and dark colors. After drying,square one end and rip off 8 strips to 1-7/8 wide,or what ever dim. that you decide to use. Now glue these strips as before,turning every other strip end for end to provide alternating light and dark squares for the playing surface.
Depending upon the equipment you have access to I finish up as follows.
I thickness sand the glue up to the maximum dim.and band saw the glueup to make veneer for the tops. I laminate to the face of MDO and veneer the back side with whatever veneer is handy.
If you cannot resaw a piece of this width.you can glue up half of the 8 pieces,or 4 strips,and then resaw the narrower piece. For me,it is easy to trim the outside and fit the desired edges around the now finished board.
I saw this veneer to 3/32" and can get at least 6 board faces from each 1"glue up.
I some times use this board for a table top,in which case,I will eliminate the plain veneer on the back side.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Thanks Pat, thats good info to know.
Nate,
The latest issue of "Woodwork" has an article on building a chess table. Check it out. (Will I be driven from this site in disgrace for the mention of a competitive magazine on a Taunton forum?)
Thanks a bunch, I'll check it out. I'll forgive you in this case since its for my benefit. I don't know about the others.
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