Just want get some experienced input on what kind of straightedge (manufacturer) people in this forum use to check for coplanar tables on your jointer. I’ve never seen, in all my net surfing, a supplier of quality straightedges for purposes like this. Any info is greatly appreciated…thanx, do
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Replies
Have a Starrett 4' and 6' straight edge but I was working on jointers and such professionally. A local sharpening shop converts old paper knives into straight edges for pretty cheap...like $75 for 6'. Not the same steel quality but compares to my Starrett in accuracy and can be touched up for cheap.
http://subtool.com/stcat/frame_subtool.html
Subtool is cheaper than Starrett
Square edge tool steel is the most you need. Beveled edge and stainless are unnecessary expenses.
. I don't find levels, aluminum straight edges, shear cut offs to be accurate enough but those seem to work for many folks so you might start out simply. It becomes more an issue when one gets paid to set jointers up in a reasonable amount of time, not to mention when the beds are 6' to 10' long.
Edited 9/16/2003 2:13:17 PM ET by Rick at Arch. Timber and Millwork
Anything long enough and accurate enough will cost you almost as much as you probably paid for the machine itself.
Starrett makes what you need.
Yes, indeed...how true, how true :-(
David,
Issue #142 of Fine Woodworking has an article on tuning up a jointer that you should read. It includes a method for making a test bar to check the flatness of a jointer's tables and how to correct for misaligned tables.
The test bar is made from MDF with three drywall screws in one edge. Using a variation on a machinist's technique, the article shows you how to adjust the heads of the three screws to be perfectly in line.
John W.
Thanx John, I'll have to dig out that issue and review. I've been checking what few prices I could find on straight edges and the prices are exorbitant to say the least...
I got my 72" Starret for a couple of dollars at an auction of an out of business tool and die shop. It was so cheap because it had been painted (probably by mistake) on about 1/2 of it with some space age goop and was in the misc. junk at the end of the auction. No solvent would touch it so I scraped it clean. I'm in L.A., so we have lots of auctions like that.
Two 24" carpenters squares work pretty well.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
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