Replies

1. 
   Jim_Markle | Mar 01, 2002 10:41pm | #1

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   Looking for advice from those who have experience in finishing tops with checks. I have a couple of great crotch pcs of Walnut and Cherry, that are going to make some fantastic table tops. Problem is both have small checks or cracks in them (probably from the drying process). I won't be able to scrap them out so I need to find a good way to fill them when finishing. I will be using shellac for finish, can I just fill the cracks with multipal layers of shellac until level with the rest of the surface?

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Mar 01, 2002 10:57pm | #2

   *Jim,I'll probably get shot for this but....Assuming this is not going to be stained, apply a coat of or two of your shellac then use clear two part expoxy to fill the cracks with, level then proceed with the rest of your finishing schedule.Dano

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   Seth_Frankel_ | Mar 02, 2002 05:39pm | #3

   *Dano, I won't shoot you, but I might add that depending on the color of the wood and the size of the crack/check I might be tempted to mix pigment into the epoxy to help blend or "neutralize" the possibly shiny nature of the epoxy fill. I have found that if the fill is too large it appears very obvious (too shiny) especially on horizontal surfaces.This technique might be best before any finishing but make sure to select pigments relating to the i final color after all staining/finishing, not the bare wood.Depending on the amount of checking, I've taken the epoxy and squeegeed it into all of the surface and filled small crack, pores, etc. then proceeded with finishing. This way the overall top has a similar quality and the cracks seem to disappear altogether.You could also mix some dust from the wood you're using with shellac to make a filler that matches in color and sheen.Another solution might be colored shellac sticks.Best,Seth

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   Danford_C._Jennings | Mar 02, 2002 07:09pm | #4

   *Seth, Thanks for not shooting me. b ;)I've never had the problem you've describe. Sanding the fill removes any gloss. I've even done this on surfaces that were deeply gouged and with an oiled finish. After "softening" the gouge with sandpaper and filled with clear epoxy, the grain is still "uninterrupted" and the gouge w/fill invisible. More recently; I did a Western Red Cedar door with a sunburst kick panel, the "sun" was made out of a piece of 25 year old WRC that has a big knot in it. There was a piece of the knot missing almost the size of a nickel, used the same technique, it's posted in the "Gallery".This technique will not work if the piece will be stained after filling as I alluded to. The epoxy won't absorb the stain. But, after staining and a coat or two of shellac or finish it will also work...been using epoxy for this type of filler for years.I've found that mixing saw dust in with the finish or glue actually makes the defect stand out even more, though other's seem to have no problem. Could it be a "technique" issue?Dano

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   Seth_Frankel_ | Mar 03, 2002 03:10am | #5

   *Dano, thanks for your experiences. I'll have to try your techniques. I once did a tabletop made from an antique piece of english brown oak and used a clear epoxy to fill some of the cracks. I used a varnish/oil finish and afterwards that filled area appeared much glossier than the rest of the finish. It looked like one of those rope and driftwood coffee tables with 1/8" of epoxy on the top (ok, maybe an exageration)! I was looking for a more matte surface and the epoxy was rather reflective.I ended up mixing a bit of dust with some powdered pigments and it seemed to take the finish more evenly (maybe just cutting the reflection).I'll have to do some experiments and see what comes of it. You know how it is, you find a solution that seems to work and you (or at least, I) tend to stick with it.Thanks, though.Seth

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   Scott_Dog | Mar 06, 2002 06:05am | #6

   *DanoYou shouldn't be shot. I've also used epoxy to fill cracks. All that has to remember is stain will not penetrate into epoxy. So if staining is going to be done the epoxy has to be colored. I've used sawdust to color the epoxy and succeeded a number of times.I have also had pieces where the crack needed some added strength so I in-laid a butterfly shaped tendon.I hope my positive experience helps the next guyScott