Replies

1. 
   user-414076 | Oct 25, 2003 11:37pm | #1

   My reply will be absolutly no help since I have the same problem. Mine is an unfinished 1 and 3/4 inch white oak entry door. It would appear that one of the side pieces must have been on the top of the pile prior to building because it has marks where other wood was laid accross it. No doubt to secure it for shipping. Well I've tried sanding from 120 down to 60 grit and even bleaching but it's still obvious. If I stain this it will be a mess. One I could live with but there's 4 accross the entire length of the wook.

1. 
   marcigliano | Oct 26, 2003 02:16pm | #4

   Thanks--I"ll try Sanding the back to see if the marks are wood defects. If so

   staining seems the only solution.  If the marks do not go though I'll try a scraper-this may be your solution!

1. 
   jonsherryl | Oct 26, 2003 04:58pm | #5

   I think, on close examination, you'll discover the blotchiness is being caused by uneven porosity. Cherry is notorious for producing a slight curl in the figure that exposes obliquely oriented "end grain" on the surface. This, in turn, produces uneven porosity.

   You can prevent (minimize) this problem to some degree by being extremely careful in stock selection...but there's no sure cure. Also, the effect is less noticeable if you avoid penetrating, oil type finishes...even applying the slower drying oil based varnishes directly on the raw wood can be a serious mistake. Shellac, or lacquer (especially if you spray it) seems to help a little in hiding the uneven porosity.

   In the final analysis, though, this just happens to be a feature of cherry...and the key to maximizing the beauty of cherry rests in stock selection.  In other words, the game is won or lost as you pick the boards to be used in any given project. There's no "good" or "bad" cherry. It's ALL good...but you have to be absolutely consistent in what you put into the piece...both in terms of its initial, raw color and ALSO the subtleties of its figure.

1. 
   marcigliano | Oct 27, 2003 04:50pm | #6

   Thanks

   After one week of grappeling with this I was beginning ti=o come to exactly the same conclusion--It's inherent--only the degree can be minimized by board selection

2. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 26, 2003 03:03am | #2

   Before you give up all hope, try Old Master Cherry Penetrating stain.  I brush it on and then use the same brush (dry) to feather it into the surface until it is dry in appearance.  I don't touch it with a rag till it has set 24 hrs.  That stain is not a sealing stain, so multiple coats can be done if desired.

   Old Masters Cherry Penetrating stain is the best match for aged native cherry I have been able to find.  Try it on some scrap first.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   marcigliano | Oct 26, 2003 02:07pm | #3

   Thanks for your input.  I was trying to avoid stainingbut I agree that it may be the only solution.  Doesnt Old Masters  itself cause blotching as do other non paste type stains?  Im now thinking the marks are part of the wood--I'll sand the back of the top today to check. Thanks again

2. 
   IanC | Oct 28, 2003 02:16am | #7

   Mike, I'd like to give the Old Masters' a try.  Can you suggest a supplier? Thanks.

   Ian

1. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 28, 2003 06:07am | #9

   Try this -

   http://www.oldmastrs.com/

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Oct 28, 2003 03:48am | #8

   Frank - Mr. Arno gave a great explanation for the cause of the "blotchy" appearance in the wood - it's natural. To avoid over-accentuating the appearance when you apply the finish, use either shellac or lacquer. Oil-base finish products will highlight the "blotchy" look.

   For a table-top, shellac is not a good choice; it's not terribly durable. It's susceptible to damage from water, heat, alcohol (drinks), and cleansers that use some form of alkaline. So, to overcome the lack of durability, you can apply 1-2 coats of dewaxed shellac in the grade/color of your choice and follow that with 2-3 coats of varnish (polyurethane is a more durable type of varnish). Using dewaxed shellac is most important if you use polyurtehane as the topcoats for your finish; poly is noted for poor adhesion to shellac that contains wax. I'll suggest a finish with 1-2 coats of orange or garnet shellac followed by 3 coats of Waterlox (.com) original varnish. This will produce both an attractive and durable finish.

   If you use spray equipment to apply finishes, then lacquer is another good choice. Though not as durable as varnish, it's a beautiful finish that's easily repaired.

   I like working with cherry myself and have tried a variety of finishes. Since you want to avoid dyes and/or stains, either of the two finishes above would be a good choice. You can take a look at some other choices, including dyes and stains, at this link - Cherry Finishes.

   Paul