Hi, The chest that I have been working on for quite a while is finally done. I want to thank everyone that offered advice on the finishing process-Roc, Westchester,Bilyo,Swenson, Steveshoene, Mcfarmer. When all was said and done, Waterlox was the one. The results are about as good as I could have expected. It was done with 5 coats on everything, applied with 0000 steel wool and wiped off. The process worked pretty well, next time I might modify it a little. I have attached some pictures. Thanks again, you were a big help.
Replies
Cherry Chest
Wow ! - that is fine craftsmanship starting from the selection of wood,...... to design, joinery, and finish. The dovetailing is hidden from observers but woodworkers know what it takes to accomplish that. One question - you applied the varnish with steel wool so as to smooth the finish layer below ? I think steel wool gives off little hairs and may leave impurities in the finish. Maybe a scotch brite pad would work better ? Now schedule that piece for fine arts coverage and draw up a trust.
SA
Refreshing to see some Fine Woodworking
Like I said before, I really enjoy looking at the details and over all presence of this chest of drawers.
Nice to think I helped in some small way (rather than just be a pain in the neck (my main calling)).
I am curious for you to elaborate on the changes you would make in the finishing steps next time. I might learn something.
About that abrasive applicator pad and particulates getting in the finish . . . that will happen with steel wool or other materials it just depends on what color you would like them to be
steel = silver , black or rust,
3M = white (not so much because no abrasive added to fibers) or gray (or heaven forbid green or red)
Sand paper = translucent like silica or ruby (hey now there's a thought ) but there are other problems like maybe the paper falls apart.
The idea seems to be to sort of fill the pores with previous finish and wood dust ? But not really so why use any abrasive ?
Just some random thoughts as they made their way, with many wrong turns, through my brain . . . I am not much of a wood finisher. Mostly I want your thoughts and others who have finished cherry so that I can do well first try.
Different strokes
FWIW, I don't think of myself as a "finisher," either. But, I lean toward filling open grain prior to starting the finishing, then using 600 grit wet/dry between coats. I use the wet/dry on a block with a thin cork bottom surface, usually with water. I feel the block makes it easier to keep a smooth, even surface. Steel wool can introduce surface variations, and even 0000 seems too coarse to me. I also prefer "glossy" finishes over "satin" that has microscopic junk in the mix. If I want more of a satin final finish, a little rub-down with Rottenstone, oil and a felt pad will do that.
Finishing project
Hi, First- thanks very much for the compliments. I did try the white scotch brite and the 0000 steel wool. The wool seemed to work better. Five coats of Waterlox was applied to the whole exterior. It was done in sections, flipping it around to make it easier. The finish was applied liberally with the steel wool and allowed to stay on the surface as long as possible, but not so long as to make it tough to wipe off. Usually 10-15 minutes. Then it would be wiped down with a clean rag. This left very little finish on the surface. Repeated the process, one coat per section every 24 hours. This built up a little film after 4-5 coats. No runs, brush marks or drips. Next time I might try applying it with a rag and spread the finish real thin and not wipe off. This seems like it will build a lot easier. This is the first time trying a wipe on/off type of finish. I'm pretty satisfied with the results at this point, but time will be the judge. The main complaint with the waterlox is its tendancy to turn to gel in the container, even with bloxygen. Thanks again for the advice.
no pictures
show or anything relating to a link
ron
Pictures
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Pictures
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Reply to Sid works
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Reply to Sid works
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Reply to Sid works
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Reply to Sid works
Hi Sid works. Did you have a problem with the pictures? Others seemed to get them ok. Let me know how and I'll try to get them to you. Thanks for your interest.
Reply to Sid works
Hi Sid works. Did the pictures give you a problem? Tell me how and I'll try to send them to you. Thanks for the interest.
looks like
the bull gear is jumping the heifer gear again. I have gotten 7 replies from him referring to my question all the same. any one else gotten that. his pictures never emerged at all or any reference to them
ron
Reply to sid woorks
Hi, I'm sorry about the confusion. Yesterday I tried to reply to you and the message kept popping up saying "message didn't go through, spam detected. I kept trying to put it through and the message kept coming up. In hindsight they were all going through.I am attaching the photos to this. I hope you can view them.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled